tsh
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Posts: 36 
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Post by tsh on Nov 12, 2017 21:42:33 GMT -7
Lately I've wondered if the supplementals I do are the most effective to help me meet my goals, and if perhaps some of them are redundant. Here they are:
1. Push ups (sometimes substituted by IYT's with light dumbbells)
2. Front Levers, usually with one leg tucked in (Sometimes substituted by leg raises early in the cycle)
3. Ring dips
4. Bicep curls with dumbbell
5. Shoulder presses with dumbbell
6. Weighted pull ups
And here are my goals ranked by importance with #1 being most important
1. Shoulder stability/injury prevention
2. Improve max ladder on campus board (Current best is 1-4-6 moon spacing)
3. Ability to do one arm pull-ups (Currently I'm pretty close - I've done about 80% of one)
4. Improve posture (It's already better than before but could still improve)
5. Ability to do a front lever with perfect form
6. Ability to do powerful undercling moves when the time comes. Not currently necessary but I'll likely project some routes with undercling cruxes in next year or two.
Any suggestions on supplemental exercises to swap out for ones that could better meet my goals (at least the most important ones)?
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Post by daustin on Nov 13, 2017 10:14:10 GMT -7
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 13, 2017 11:29:49 GMT -7
I agree with Dan, you probably should add some thereband/rotator cuff exercises for #1. For 2 & 3 I would recommend replacing the weighted pull-ups with offset pull-ups or 1-arm pull-ups with assistance (from the inactive arm). These are essentially offset pull-ups in which your low hand only pulls as hard as necessary to complete the ROM. You might want to add something for your lower back for #6.
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tsh
New Member
Posts: 36
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Post by tsh on Nov 13, 2017 15:49:26 GMT -7
Thanks for the advice Dan and Mark. Now that you mention it, I remember a climber PT telling me that I was weak in the rotator cuff internal and external rotations but I never did anything about it, so now I can see it's high time to add those two exercises in. I'm not really sure which of my current shoulder stability supplementals I should eliminate to make room for these, or if I should keep the current ones and just alternate them with these new ones from one workout to the next...
The offset pull ups seem like a great alternative to weighted. I got caught up with seeing how much weight I could add to pull ups, but it seems that the uneven loading of offset pull ups would lend itself to the cross-body demands of campusing and one-arms.
Mark, what's your favorite lower back exercise? (I can't say I've ever intentionally targeted that area) And do you think it would be a more effective way to train for powerful underclings than bicep curls? That's really the only reason I've been doing bicep curls.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 13, 2017 19:05:27 GMT -7
I do "Advanced 1-arm Inverted Rows*": youtu.be/A5QYcxf8FD8A lot of people recommend deadlifts, and I know Boer has had good success with Back levers. I would keep doing the biceps curls. They're a big factor in one-arm pull-ups, lock-offs and campusing, and you still need them for underclinging. And you don't want to end up with bigger forearms than biceps, that looks weird. |
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Post by Charlie S on Nov 13, 2017 20:01:35 GMT -7
And you don't want to end up with bigger forearms than biceps, that looks weird. Since when? Add that to the fashion chapter you're thinking about. Guilty as charged on this one  +1 for deadlifts. I have a "big hairy project" which has a heinous squat crux on an undercling. These have helped move the limiting factor from strength to technique. I can also vouch for no extra leg weight, even going up to 305. Mark's advanced rows can also be done with a TRX if you don't have terrain like that to work with. I've done those with some dumbbells too to try and target core. |
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tsh
New Member
Posts: 36
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Post by tsh on Nov 14, 2017 13:26:39 GMT -7
Thanks guys, this has been enlightening for me. Looks like my 40 degree wall probably isn't steep enough to do the advanced rows per the video, but I do have trx (gym rings), so I may go that route. Honestly the hardest part about all of this is picking which exercises NOT to do  |
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Post by Tom on Nov 15, 2017 9:27:47 GMT -7
I do "Advanced 1-arm Inverted Rows*": youtu.be/A5QYcxf8FD8A lot of people recommend deadlifts, and I know Boer has had good success with Back levers. I would keep doing the biceps curls. They're a big factor in one-arm pull-ups, lock-offs and campusing, and you still need them for underclinging. And you don't want to end up with bigger forearms than biceps, that looks weird. What do you think about plank as a lower back exercise? I've been doing a couple sets of 90 second planks, thinking it'll give me some strength / endurance for long laybacking corners, but I'm not convinced I'm right... |
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Post by erick on Nov 15, 2017 10:05:06 GMT -7
And you don't want to end up with bigger forearms than biceps, that looks weird. Guilty! I measured them one day and my forearm is 1" bigger than my biceps, I kinda like it though and my wife gets real excited when I start showing off those forearms! Funny thing about my biceps, I seem to have good lockoff strength but pathetic pull strength. Palm away I can hold a 1 arm lockoff for about 15 sec, palms in 45 sec or more. But I am not even close to doing a 1 arm pull. Eric |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 15, 2017 13:38:55 GMT -7
Strength varies across different joint angles, so your biceps/lats are probably a lot stronger when fully contracted. If you do assisted 1-arms you'll be able to tell pretty quickly which angles are the weak point. I reckon I'm weakest ~120 degrees (talking elbow angle), and quite strong below 90deg.
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 16, 2017 8:08:33 GMT -7
What do you think about plank as a lower back exercise? I've been doing a couple sets of 90 second planks, thinking it'll give me some strength / endurance for long laybacking corners, but I'm not convinced I'm right... Plank is an ok exercise for the anterior side of the core, but I don't really think it does much for your lower back. It's also a different movement compared to a layback, so I doubt you're getting much crossover from planks to laybacks. |
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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 16, 2017 8:31:08 GMT -7
Strength varies across different joint angles, so your biceps/lats are probably a lot stronger when fully contracted. If you do assisted 1-arms you'll be able to tell pretty quickly which angles are the weak point. I reckon I'm weakest ~120 degrees (talking elbow angle), and quite strong below 90deg. similar here. Though I have trouble with those last centimeters past 75 getting the bar from nose to chin |
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Post by RobF on Nov 20, 2017 13:20:47 GMT -7
Although its been around a while I like this as a foundation for setting up a training program (in particular for climbers to work on thoracic mobility). www.t-nation.com/training/joint-by-joint-approach-to-trainingGray Cook also uses a developmental milestones model in his training methodology- basically think of the stages a baby goes through when learning to walk. Within training the aim is to master each level before progressing onto the next. Conversely if someone is struggling with moving efficiently at a certain level then it may be necessary to go right back to basics. Gray Cook lists the stages as: Rolling (inc: upper & lower limb rolling), creeping, crawling, kneeling, squatting, standing, stepping, walking, climbing and running. As an example: supposed someone has really poor rotational control whilst running (and presuming the issue is with lack of stability vs lack of mobility / stiffness) --> go back and master rolling, then move onto some rotational core work in 4 point kneeling, later add in rotational work in high kneeling or standing (e.g.: PNF patterns with bands)then back to analysing the running pattern. There's loads and loads of 'core' exercises out there but using a framework provides some kind of structure as to which to include, when and why. I particularly like it as it gives me ammo to have a go at my cycling friends who are exercising at a lower complexity level from an evolutionary standpoint vs climbing... :-) |
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