Post by ryanmcd on Jun 14, 2017 17:52:35 GMT -7
Will I gain more by just limit bouldering and skipping the campus board for now?
I've been climbing about a year and a half and am in my third cycle. I'm redpointing mid-to-hard 5.11 now without a chance to project anything, and am hoping to move into easy 5.12 during a five-week trip this summer. My first cycle I worked up to 1-3-5 on large rungs. I skipped the power phase on the second cycle for a long multi-pitch trip. While my redpointing has improved by a number grade since the first cycle, I wasn't even able to do 1-3-5 in my first campus session this time. I've noticed that I have a lot of trouble with moves that involve a big powerful pull like campusing, even off large holds. Meanwhile, I'm sending V5 pretty regularly and was close to sending a V6 on the second session of limit bouldering--one with a big powerful pull.
So I was just reading Dave MacLeod's 9 out of 10 Climbers, and he says limit bouldering is more efficient for building power than campusing until you are climbing at a very high level. So I'm wondering, should I skip campusing this cycle and just work on limit bouldering, particularly problems that require dynos and campus-like pulls--so I'm working that weakness while also spending more time building technique? Our gym also just got a Moonboard, and I'd be happy to thrash myself on that the rest of this phase.
My basic quandary: Does my relative success with some hard, dynamic bouldering mean that doing those kinds of problems helps with the big moves that campusing is supposed to help with, or does it that I'm where I should be technique-wise, and really do need the campus board to just develop the raw dynamic power?
I've been climbing about a year and a half and am in my third cycle. I'm redpointing mid-to-hard 5.11 now without a chance to project anything, and am hoping to move into easy 5.12 during a five-week trip this summer. My first cycle I worked up to 1-3-5 on large rungs. I skipped the power phase on the second cycle for a long multi-pitch trip. While my redpointing has improved by a number grade since the first cycle, I wasn't even able to do 1-3-5 in my first campus session this time. I've noticed that I have a lot of trouble with moves that involve a big powerful pull like campusing, even off large holds. Meanwhile, I'm sending V5 pretty regularly and was close to sending a V6 on the second session of limit bouldering--one with a big powerful pull.
So I was just reading Dave MacLeod's 9 out of 10 Climbers, and he says limit bouldering is more efficient for building power than campusing until you are climbing at a very high level. So I'm wondering, should I skip campusing this cycle and just work on limit bouldering, particularly problems that require dynos and campus-like pulls--so I'm working that weakness while also spending more time building technique? Our gym also just got a Moonboard, and I'd be happy to thrash myself on that the rest of this phase.
My basic quandary: Does my relative success with some hard, dynamic bouldering mean that doing those kinds of problems helps with the big moves that campusing is supposed to help with, or does it that I'm where I should be technique-wise, and really do need the campus board to just develop the raw dynamic power?