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Post by jonfrisby on Apr 24, 2017 9:05:42 GMT -7
I increase. Yes, it is less frequent than during strength.
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Post by tahmad on Feb 12, 2018 20:09:58 GMT -7
Hi All,
Hoping to revive this thread with a question.
I primarily train for bouldering and generally cycle through repeaters-->max hangs/limit bolder-->campus/limit boulder. This cycle I decided to switch things up, since I realized my ARCing capacity was so vastly beneath any of my other strengths that it could well be holding me back in terms of long term gains. So this cycle I ARCed with my repeaters and then went into max hangs (in the future ill do a separate ARC phase that overlaps with the beginning of my repeaters phase). I felt that campusing was a bit redundant with max hangs + limit bouldering, and that I'd do some campusing if I was working a project and was specifically lacking power. Anyway, background aside, here's the question:
I'm slated to have 2-3 weeks in the Gunks in April, and I'd love to try to time a peak to coincide with that. I just finished my 11th Max hang session today. I've got about 2.5 months before I'll be in the Gunks, so that's too long to try to push a peak by just max hanging and campusing until then. I'd like to try and start a new cycle, but I also know itll be really tough to be peaking in my bouldering strength if i start with ARCing now.
As such, I was wondering about doing maintenance max hangs to try to retain a certain amount of pure finger strength throughout my cycle. I had the notion of doing 3 eva lopez type hangs, for a total TUT of 30 sec, maybe twice a week before ARCing sessions and twice a week before repeaters sessions. For those of you that have tried this, did you feel like maintenance hangs took away from your other gains? Did you still lose pure max strength in spite of the maintenance hangs? I know ARCing and even repeaters reduce my bouldering strength and power significantly, though they obviously increase my endurance and power endurance.
I'm hoping that I can maintain enough pure finger strength while doing complete ARC and repeaters cycles that I can show up to the gunks within 5-10 lbs of my max hang PR, and then gain the rest of that strength back by limit bouldering on my projects, essentially. Does this seem like a reasonable plan?
Thanks all! Let me know if you'd like me to clarify anything.
Side note - any boulderers out there work in ARCing to their training with positive results? Curious.
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Post by suprcrmpr on Feb 13, 2018 0:09:59 GMT -7
Eva Lopez schedules two sessions each week in her strenght building phase. A "maintenance schedule" is once a week. Go outside if you can on your second training session.
I had great success with this all throughout last summer - one lopez-max-hang-session per week, and as much outdoor bouldering as possible. I even saw a gentle increase in weight added on my max hang session and never felt like my finger strenght was fading.
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Post by tahmad on Feb 13, 2018 19:29:50 GMT -7
Hm, interesting. Does she ever combine sessions? I.e. I was thinking of, during my ARC phase, doing 3-5 hangs and then ARCing, going in the next day and ARCing again, rest, repeat.
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Post by suprcrmpr on Feb 14, 2018 4:51:41 GMT -7
Well.. seeing as 3 x 10 sec, 3 min rest between hangs, takes about 15 minutes - you should certainly warm up before getting on the fingerboard, i.e. ARC'ing a bit.
Without knowing about your training experience, climbing experience, injury history etc it's hard to reccomend anything other than "try what you want, listen to your body and adjust accordingly".
I did my maintenance hangs on rainy days / days with time constraints etc. If I had the opportunity I'd rather go bouldering on rock for a couple of hours instead of hanging from the beastmaker. My typical max-hang session is 20-30 minutes of warming up, one 10 sec rep at bodyweight, 3 x 10 sec reps with added weight. Half crimp only. 45 minimum, 1 hour with additional core/antagonist stuff.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 14, 2018 9:13:05 GMT -7
Finally, somebody gets me!
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Post by suprcrmpr on Feb 15, 2018 0:37:58 GMT -7
Finally, somebody gets me! Don't know exactly what I got - but I'll take the praise anyhow
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 15, 2018 9:43:44 GMT -7
Oh sorry, the quote box didn't work. I meant to quote this: Without knowing about your training experience, climbing experience, injury history etc it's hard to reccomend anything other than "try what you want, listen to your body and adjust accordingly".
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Post by tahmad on Feb 16, 2018 10:21:18 GMT -7
I'm also very much in agreement with that approach! I just like gathering as much data as possible before diving in.
I can provide that information as well though:
Climbing about 8-9 years. Training consistently (i.e. periodized, standardized, recorded, etc) for the last 3. Projecting V12ish boulders in the Gunks. Had my share of minor tweaks but fingers are in solid shape right now.
I guess I've been curious about this notion of doing maintenance work - of any sort - because it seems to be the major new development in training right now, at least RCTM-type training. And it seems to address some of the major criticisms of RCTM training too.
I'm just trying not to be complacent in my training - i.e. just because something has worked, doesn't mean its the optimal or most efficient way to do something. So I try to keep the core/fundamentals the same, but also experiment with stuff like maintenance hangs.
Anyway, in sum, I'll try them! My only worry is that they will somehow make it harder for me to maximize the gains I'm trying to make in my main focus areas for the microcycles. If the volume is low enough though, I'm hoping that won't be a problem.
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