Q's about power: LB, WBL

[stanleybaker]

I just had a few questions about the warm up boulder ladder and limit bouldering.

For the WBL, it says something along the lines of (30 minutes), do 3x boulders up to flash level. If I can flash up to v4, am I trying to do these in the 30 minute time limit? What happens if I'm only at v3 when it runs out? Do I just keep going until I get my v4s finished or am I trying to race the clock to get them all done (pseduo-endurance thing going on)?

After reading through some answers on here it looks like the time limit is probably just a guideline and I should just get through all of these on whatever timeframe I have instead of sticking to the specific times listed?


I have only done one limit bouldering day and I pretty much had no clue what to choose. I can flash a majority of v4s I get on, but v5 is still usually pretty hard. I have flashed some but many I have to either work on for a full session or are right out of my wheel house and I have no chance. Should I be using v6 problems to do the limit work, then, since I'm really trying to find three or four really hard moves (instead of a v5 which would be an entire route)?

[MarkAnderson]

Its not a race, nor a pseudo-endurance thing. I typically do one problem every 2-3 minutes or so, which keeps me warm but not pumped (so I'm not 100% recovered between problems, but not at all pumped either).

Anyway, the goal is to get warmed up, so do as much or as little (in terms of time or problems) as you need to get a good warmup. In may take some experimentation to figure out what works best for you.

[stanleybaker]

Thanks Mark. A question for limit bouldering: How hard is too hard?

I chose my two limit boulders yesterday, one is a v6 with an overhang that has a bunch of crimps (the project I'm working towards is a super crimpy outside v4) and a overhanging v7 that looked like fun and I figured I'd be able to do a portion of it (aiming for 3-4 moves instead of the entire thing).

Both of them I can do the first 3 moves of and then the 4th move I failed every attempt (I gave them both 4 rested attempts, and I'm counting the 1st "hard move" as the first limit move). I know these are supposed to be hard enough to take maybe multiple sessions per move, but what if I just chose ones that are too hard for me and I never make the move? Will it still give me some improvement or will it end up being a waste? Instead of doing the first 3 moves that I know I can do should I just start on the hard move and count that as my first move for the limit bouldering?

[srossabi42]

you should definitely try starting on the hard move. if you aren't seeing progress, are there slightly better (or closer) feet/handholds that you could use to make the move just a bit easier?

[jetjackson]

rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/02/09/the-anatomy-of-a-limit-boulder-problem/ - good run down here on ideal LB prob.