The "brendann" Theory of ARCing

[jcm]

I’m going to go ahead and call out a specific user with a request for information: brendann. Whenever there is a question on ARCing, he consistently replies and always has informed and useful responses. Of the users on this site, and of internet training information sources in general, he seems to rely more extensively on ARCing in order to climb at a high level than almost anyone else.

While the many forum responses are a good source of information, it would be useful to have an outline of how you program ARCing into your training. It seems like you have a somewhat different perspective on how to use ARCing (intensity, frequency, programming, etc) than that expressed by the Andersons.

So, care to provide a basic overview? A bit of information that could be useful might be:

- Basic approach: Length and number of sets per session, number of days per week, angle (steep jugs vs. slightly overhanging crimps), continuous difficulty/movement vs. undulating difficulty and hanging out at rests to recover, traverse vs. treadwall. (It would also be interesting to hear your thoughts on the tradeoffs inherent to these decisions, such as if you think there are significant benefits to steep vs. vert, treadwall vs traversing, etc.)

- Programming: How you fit ARCing into your season, how you schedule around training other attributes (strength etc..)

- Intensity: Light pump vs. heavy pump, fatigue at end of sets, etc. Thoughts on the tradeoff of longer sets (30 min easier climbing) vs. higher intensity (10 minute, more intense sessions)

- Benefits to your climbing?

This is a lot of questions you ask, but I think a lot of people on this thread would benefit from reading a coherent, all-in-one-place manifesto on how you use ARCing.

[joev9]

Glad you posted this, as I have been thinking for a while now that I am not ARCing correctly.

[brendann]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'll outline quickly and work to fill in. As a bit of background I came to climbing in 2002 from aerobic sports. A lot of climbers seem to come from strength sports like lifting or wrestling. I think this colors my preferences in training and types of climbing. I have never been particularly strong but I have the ability to suffer.

Basic approach: Length and number of sets per session, number of days per week, angle (steep jugs vs. slightly overhanging crimps), continuous difficulty/movement vs. undulating difficulty and hanging out at rests to recover, traverse vs. treadwall. (It would also be interesting to hear your thoughts on the tradeoffs inherent to these decisions, such as if you think there are significant benefits to steep vs. vert, treadwall vs traversing, etc.)

Length and number of sets per session: 2x20 minutes. This is a good tradeoff between time/effect. It fits in a 1 hour window with a 5 min warmup/cooldown and 10 min rest between sets.
Number of days per week: Up to five if I am trying to ramp up fitness for a goal.
Angle: Steep. The available wall is 45 degrees.
Continuous vs. Undulating difficulty: As continous as possible.

Programming: How you fit ARCing into your season, how you schedule around training other attributes (strength etc..)

I program similar to what the RCTM outlines, with a base-building phase in the beginning of a cycle and a fitness phase at the end of a cycle.

Intensity: Light pump vs. heavy pump, fatigue at end of sets, etc. Thoughts on the tradeoff of longer sets (30 min easier climbing) vs. higher intensity (10 minute, more intense sessions)

I aim to stay as close to the lactate threshold as possible. This means sometimes going over that line into 'pumped' territory and bringing it back with a short rest. The 20 minutes ends with a moderate, but unrecoverable pump. Not the forearm-splitting pump of intervals, but enough pump that I can't continue to 25 minutes. I think the 20 minute set balances an effort that you can sustain for endurance routes, with a training stimulus that drives progression. 

[jcm]

Thanks for the complete response. That's a useful guide to emulate, especially with regard to session length/intensity. I had been experimenting a bit with shorter, more difficult sessions on the treadwall (10 min, greater pump) this season, and wasn't liking it. I felt like I was going too anaerobic, and not quite training the right thing for ARC. I think I will return to the length/intensity that you use.

Another programming question: Do you ever intersperse ARC sessions during your other phases (for example, ARC once a week during the strength phase)?

[climber511]

2 x 20 minutes on a 45 degree wall? Only in my dreams! Maybe if I climb on the back side .

[erick]

Thanks Brendan, what brand type of holds do you use on your 45? My home wall is 30 degrees and I don't have tons of good comfy jugs so arcing was too hard. Instead I just did volume bouldering, I was working to climb a total of 2000' feet in 3 30 min sets with 10 min rest. That seemed to work pretty well but I'm sure an actual ARC would have some real benefits over my strategy.

[brendann]

Nov 23, 2016 21:07:04 GMT -7 erick said:

Thanks Brendan, what brand type of holds do you use on your 45? 

These Atomik Jugs are the most incut, lowest profile, smallest footprint jugs you can get. Great for a woody where space is limited. 

[tj]

Nov 23, 2016 16:21:31 GMT -7 climber511 said:

2 x 20 minutes on a 45 degree wall? Only in my dreams! Maybe if I climb on the back side .

Right?! Only if I had a power spot the whole time could I do this.  I also have overuse injuries and have a hard time with ARC's because of them.  I'm sure that form (shoulder) is a part of this and of course when we get tired, we lose our good form (and the point of ARC is to get tired, right?).  I'm probably not explaining my point well but in any case, 45 degrees is out of the question for me.  I stick to vert on ARC with some trips into overhanging territory...

[brendann]

Nov 23, 2016 16:17:30 GMT -7 jcm said:

Another programming question: Do you ever intersperse ARC sessions during your other phases (for example, ARC once a week during the strength phase)?

I ARC whenever I feel like my fitness is dipping, or I want a break from finger-intensive work.