Two-a-days?

[awilk503]

For starters, I am a mid to low 5.11 climber who wants to make the push into the .11+ and .12- range.  I am planning to start my first training cycle in my 3ish years climbing in early September with a climbing trip planned in early December.  Due to my work schedule and access to training facilities it will be possible for me to train in the mornings and/or in the evenings. I won't have enough time to do anything productive at a crag but I could squeeze in around 90-120 mins of training at a time.

My question is would it be productive to do a "two-a-day" type training regiment? And if so, would there be any phases where this would be more applicable than others?

Thanks!

[MarkAnderson]

Basically, no. Two-a-days are for sports where volume is king, like swimming, running and cycling. For rock climbing, intensity + recovery is king.

But, if you don't have a single block of time to complete all your training activities in a single session, a 2-a-day approach can work. For example. Suppoise you ahve enough time to hangboard, but not enough time to do your supplemental exercises afterwards. You can HB in the morning and do the SEs in a second evening session. During the Base Fitness Phase, you could split up your ARC sets into multiple sessions (45 set in the am, 45 minute set in the PM). During the Performance Phase sometimes weather (generally when it's really hot) dictates climbing early in the am and late in the pm, assuming there isn;t enough time to get all your burns in one or the other.