|
|
Post by erick on Nov 5, 2016 17:17:14 GMT -7
The wife and I are training for a trip to bishop at Christmas. Right now we are in the middle of our strength phase and next weekend we are making a short trip to Smith. Since starting the rock prodigy system I have never climbed outdoors during a strength phase. We will probably only have two climbing days max and i'm wondering what are the most appropriate types of objects to take on during a strength phase. Should I try and fill out some holes in my route pyramid, consider it outdoor mileage time, start a really hard project I know I can't finish? What's the best way to take advantage of this trip.
|
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 5, 2016 18:34:10 GMT -7
Are you treating your climbing days like training days, or like recovery days? For example, consider the two example schedules:
Example A (training at smith):
Day 1: HB
Day 2, 3: Rest
Day 4: HB
Day 5, 6: Rest
Day 7: Climb at Smith (hard)
Day 8: Climb at Smith (easy)
Day 9, 10: Rest
Day 11: HB
...
Example B (Recovery days at Smith):
Day 1: HB
Day 2, 3: Rest
Day 4: HB
Day 5: Climb at Smith (easy)
Day 8: Climb at Smith (easy)
Day 9: Rest
Day 10: HB
...
(note, I would not recommend climbing two days in a row, especially not at a cheese-grater like Smith)
|
|
|
|
Post by erick on Nov 7, 2016 8:15:45 GMT -7
The schedule is
M rest
T HB
W rest
T rest
F Smith
S Smith ?
S Smith ?
I'll probably climb Friday and early morning on Sunday just before heading back home. Would projecting doable routes or 'reach' routes be better for strength training?
|
|
|
|
Post by joev9 on Nov 7, 2016 8:26:52 GMT -7
I would climb routes that look fun and just consider this a short break from training. Just pick back up with the next HB session on Wed. after you return...
|
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 7, 2016 14:59:09 GMT -7
Doing hard moves, especially fingery hard moves, would be best for training, but I like Joe's idea too.
|
|
