advice for a specific (powerful) problem

[alexandra]

Hi all,

One of my projects is a V6 that I have done all the moves on a few times (I can do it in two sections but always fall in one of two spots). The problem seems to  be that the last two moves are two powerful moves (for me) back to back. While the first move is not supposed to be very powerful if you are a reasonably tall person, for me is a pretty hard throw to a good slopey hold with the right hand, where my feet often cut (or tip toeing on one foot). The move after this is a bump of the right hand to a pretty sharp but good hold, which is also a throw, especially for my height (again). Catching the swing on this move is highly non trivial given how overhung the climb is.  The opening moves are static strength moves on small holds which I have no problem with. I am going to get on this project this coming weekend and was wondering if there is any quick advice I can get on how to approach this. I am starting to believe that it is a mental thing, maybe I am telling myself I can't do it when I see how far the holds are. or even if I don't get to send this weekend, is there a longer term training advice I can get on how to train for two big moves back to back? Obviously, I could be looking to do two big moves back to back at the gym, but such problems are hard to find. Is there anything I can do on campus board or hang board? should I train PE? any advice is appreciated.

[scojo]

I don't have any advice for the short term, except to make sure you're well rested/physically fresh for your attempts.

In the long term you could try working a limit bouldering problem that has a powerful bump as the crux move. You could also work "bumps" on a campus board (reach for a submaximal rung and then bump to a higher rung with the same hand).

[daustin]

One thing that can be helpful is embracing having your feet cut. Depends on the individual moves, but sometimes it's counterproductive to keep your feet on the rock if there's a high probability that they wind up cutting, as it makes it harder to control a swing. If you plan the move to be more of a campus type move, you can proactively jump "away" from the rock and minimize the swing. This is a pretty poor description of what I'm trying to say, but if you jump right then you can arrive at those holds in a body position that will minimize swing.

Let me know if this doesn't make any sense and I can try to clarify!

[alexandra]

Unfortunately, I'm not really understanding what you're saying daustin:( it would be great if you could clarify... Or perhaps send a video?

[daustin]

Haha I figured that might be the case. I don't have video, but let me try to clarify.

So you've got a dynamic move where your feet frequently cut, even if you're trying to keep them on the rock. Think about your body position when you arrive at the target hold. If you're trying to keep your feet on the wall and your feet cut unexpectedly, then your lower body will pendulum out from the wall and you'll have to try really hard to control the swing.

If this move is so dynamic that cutting feet is largely unavoidable, it may be more efficient to just jump as opposed to (futilely) trying to keep your feet on the wall. Now, think about your body position when you arrive at the target hold if you jump: instead of having your feet against the rock creating the potential for a big pendulum swing, your feet will be underneath you, so when you actually latch the target hold you won't be fighting against a swing so much. So you can jump and stick the move with relatively little swing, and then place your feet back on the rock from a stable position as opposed to while you're swinging around.

If the target holds aren't good enough for you to campus to, then this all might be a moot point. But from your description, it sounds like the holds are probably good enough.

Apologies for making this clear as mud. Maybe someone else can chime in with a simpler explanation (if anyone else gets what I'm saying).

[alexandra]

thanks! that makes sense. The first move I can probably jump to, but the second bump seems very hard for me to move at all sometimes...I will try to jump and see what happenes though! I did figure out a static way to do the second move at some point but it involves a drop knee at the level of my face so this is a bit scary and haven't been able to commit yet ...