|
Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 29, 2016 13:01:39 GMT -7
As if there were an equally good crag! Where else can you find world class single-pitch trad, world class/legendary sport, top-notch multi-pitch, and ultra-classic routes in literally every grade from 3rd class to 5.14+? And then there's the scenic beauty and variety of climbing styles between basalt, rhyolite and tuff. In all my travels the closest thing I've found is the combination of Arapiles and the Grampians (about 45 minutes apart), but that was before the Taipan Wall--by far the best hard climbing in the region--was closed. OK, fine. How about "a reasonably adequate and more climactically favorable substitute crag." I can live with that
|
|
|
Post by erick on Apr 29, 2016 13:58:40 GMT -7
Erick, you said strength then base fitness. Did you train in that order? Sorry I was a little unclear. I used the standard training plan but was just listing what I see as the order of importance. I personally had a short base fitness phase because I am pretty familiar with Smith and had pretty good fitness when I started. YMMV and your own skills and weaknesses determine a lot. Send me a PM if you have questions about specific routes or want more info on how I trained.
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 29, 2016 15:24:03 GMT -7
I think you're definitely gonna want some PE for Chain Reaction. It's a good 20 moves to the dyno, not including shuffles.
|
|
Joey
New Member
Posts: 24
|
Post by Joey on Apr 30, 2016 6:36:49 GMT -7
On another note. I know the red is going to be hot in august, however my friends want to make it out there and I cant resist. I was there in the beginning of April and conditions were almost perfect. Now going in august I'm sure it will be hot. Regardless of the heat, How can i transition from smith to the red with about a 3 to 4 week layover.
|
|
|
Post by robdebruyn on Jan 19, 2017 9:41:15 GMT -7
Hey everyone, I'm going to resurrect this thread, as I just booked a flight for a week-long trip to Smith at the end of April, and I know a few members of the forum have a lot of experience there. So first question: is that a good time for Smith? A quick scan of monthly weather averages showed me average daily high of around 60 degrees in April with very little rain. Any major disagreements there? Secondly, I'm looking for route suggestions! Preferably in the 12c-13a range. What are the absolute must-do's at those grades? I tend to be more successful on shorter, bouldery climbs, but I know those aren't necessarily abundant at Smith, am also really looking forward to pushing my comfort zone and getting on some techy enduro climbs. Finally, I'm looking for training suggestions. I'm assuming I should be prioritizing crimp and two finger pockets while hangboarding. I'll be doing my best to set up limit boulder problems on low angle walls with bad feet and small holds. I like the suggestion upthread about campusing on small rungs, even at the expense of larger moves. Regarding PE, I'm curious about where the routes at Smith fall on the power-pure endurance spectrum. Should I be aiming more towards high-intensity, low volume PE, or low intensity, high volume? How important are recovery skills at Smith? If people think training recovery is important for redpointing success, I've been considering incorporating Steve Becthel's “Rhythm Intervals” into my PE phase ( www.climbstrong.com/articles/20140102_3). I'm lucky to have some setting privileges at my gym and I would create two side by side setups for rhythm intervals on our 20 degree overhanging systems wall, one with four identical crimps, and one with four identical two finger pockets, both with a jug in the middle for the recovery interval. My plan would be to complete alternate sets on crimps and pockets. There isn't a whole lot of low angle real estate in the gym, so I would have a hard time creating LBC's that mimic the angles at Smith. Thanks in advance!
|
|
|
Post by erick on Jan 19, 2017 23:06:09 GMT -7
Routes to go for 12a, Latin lover, heinous cling low 12b, culture of violence, crossfire, peep show 12c, heinous cling full, chain reaction, powder in my eyes, karate wall 12d, kings of rap, haven't done any others 13a, darkness at noon (don't do anything else till this is done) churning the wake I have not done anything on the monkey or in the gullys
April should be good, but take full advantage of evening temps. Most climbers at Smith are done before the best part of the day. I don't usually start warming up to 3pm.
If you have good vertical tech skills PE is not as important. Smith style is pretty unique compared to granite vert or vert sandstone IMHO. I rarely feel pumped but would get real fatigued. If you know how to rest you can recover at places with great feet but crappy hands. Lots of HB workouts pay huge dividends at Smith. You usually can't power your way through, you just need relentless tendon strength. Shallow pockets, and good open hand and crimp strength are what you want. PM if you want more info.
|
|
|
Post by andreas on Jun 15, 2017 4:10:43 GMT -7
Hi Everyone,
it is very interesting to read all the suggestions above. I have the pleasure to be able to send 2 or 3 weeks in Smith Rock this October. As October is high season in almost every climbing area i would like to make sure that this is also true for Smith Rock. From how I read the information October should be pretty good up there. Still decent temperatures but cold enough to get some crimping in.
In addition to the great training advise above (which will be incorporated in the preparation) I am looking for some additional beat for the area. In general i love technical, long, sustained climbs on not too steep rock (i love the New River Gorge). However i was told that getting used to the style in Smith can take a while. My current level for smaller projects (1-2 days) is in the 13b range. This holds for bouldery and sustained climbs.
Could anyone point me towards some possible goal routes on top of Erick's List? What are the must-have-a-look 13a's, 13b's and maybe 13c's?
As much as i love the New - my spouse did not enjoy it too much. What is the situation for shorter climbers in Smith? (she is 5.3) What are good targets in the 12a-c range?
I would like to rent a place in the are for the time being. Does anyone know about a nice place which sleeps 2 - 4 people? Close to smith rock, scenic view and the possibility to have breakfast and dinner outside would be awesome. I am pretty sure you got some amazing spots in the area - let me know!
My apologies for all the questions but i am really looking forward to visit the area and would like to be able to make it the most memorable trip so far. I have never climbed in a desert!
Regards, Andreas
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 15, 2017 9:10:23 GMT -7
I think most people would consider October to be just about ideal. It's a bit on the warm side for my taste, so I shoot more for early-to-mid November.
If you like the New, you sill love Smith. The style is somewhat different in that the New tends to have discrete holds with blank rock in between, whereas Smith has "holds" everywhere (it just a question of size). I think your skills should transfer quite well, but you may have to get used to using some really marginal footholds in between the actual holds.
As for must-try routes, in order of awesome-ness (based on your criteria): Darkness at Noon, 13a Rude Boys 13b/c Churning in the Wake (with possible link into one of the extensions) 13a (or b if you select a harder finish) Aggro Monkey 13a/b
It's definitely worth taking a day or two to try something on The Monkey. There is a quite good 13a there called The Backbone, but it's multipitch, so probably not worth the hassle of finding a suitable partner, etc. There are some great single pitch lines too though (Spank the Monkey, 12a, The North Face (trad 12a), Rising Expectations (trad 11d)), and some 5.11 routes to the summit that are all great routes.
Smith is much better for shorter climbers than the New, going back to my earlier comment about the New having discrete holds. Smith has very few reachy or height-dependent routes, and many highly-accomplished Smith climbers are on the short side (Lynn Hill, Scott Franklin, JB Tribout). In the 12a-c range I would recommend: Heinous Cling (lower section), 12a Dreamin' 12a, though a bit heady "Full" Heinous Cling, 12c--though a bit heady Latest Rage, 12b Chain Reaction, 12c Watts Totts, 12b (my wife really likes this one--very techy and fingery) Latin Lover, 12a Boy Prophet, 12b (if you can get a TR on it, which is easy to do from the Rude Boys anchor)
As for rentals, I would check VRBO. We found an awesome place to stay in a small mini-resort called Eagle Crest, which is just outside of Redmond. It's beautiful and in a pretty good location, though you still have ~ a 15 minute commute to Smith from there.
Good luck!
|
|
|
Post by erick on Jun 15, 2017 11:31:43 GMT -7
^^^^ +1 ^^^^ Nothing to add besides the obligatory "don't burn out your fingers on your first day" enjoy your trip
|
|
|
Post by andreas on Jun 16, 2017 4:39:03 GMT -7
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 19, 2017 14:10:15 GMT -7
There is also a Select guide, but you really should get the Watts guide. It's more than just a guidebook. There are many pages of interesting history that really tell the stories behind the routes, which in my experience makes all the climbing much more meaningful. Plus the hand-drawn topos provide lots of helpful beta (like locations of cruxes, gear recommendations, etc).
|
|
|
Post by andreas on Jun 21, 2017 16:06:23 GMT -7
Ok i will do that! Thank you. I was watching a lot videos of the routes recommended. I cannot wait to get there, this looks all so amazing! Still 12 weeks to go - hopefully i do not peak to early I think I will go big and settle on Rude Boys as the main target. Any suggestions how a PE and limit boulder should look like? I have some videos and can probably figure something out. It looks like there are some straight forward small full crimps at the first crux - probably worth a limit problem. The RP crux seems to be open crimps and some pockets. Any comments on how those pockets are and the undercling which is used to move to the sloper above the roof?
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 22, 2017 9:33:39 GMT -7
It's been 12 years since I did it, so hopefully someone with more recent experience can comment too. IIRC, it's mostly jizzler crimps with a few 2 or 3 finger pockets along the way. I don't think any of the pockets are especially tweaky since the feet are good in that section. I think the "undercling" is more like a sidepull. I don't recall if its a crimp or a pocket, but I don't think it's an issue. It's really about low-rep PE, with most people failing on the dynos at the lip of the scoop. The holds you're dynoing to are good, but far away. I would do some lock-off training to help with that bit, and some core training to help keep you feet on the wall.
Another thing to consider is that the rock at Smith is quite sharp, so it helps to arrive there with really good skin and recent experience pulling on painful holds. Whenever I try a painful route immediately after a training cycle I tend to struggle. It takes some time for me to get used to the pain. Also, don't underestimate the slab. It's thin, sharp, and the bolts are far apart (it's also brilliant).
|
|