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Post by alexandra on Nov 7, 2016 18:51:06 GMT -7
Mark, how do you prevent slipping from the closed micro crimp on the RTPC? I also usually fail on it because of slippage and not because the crimp opens...
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Post by erick on Nov 9, 2016 8:22:44 GMT -7
I busted my frustration and hit base weight on the thin crimp yesterday, at one good thing happened.
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Post by joev9 on Nov 9, 2016 10:26:35 GMT -7
I busted my frustration and hit base weight on the thin crimp yesterday, at one good thing happened. That is awesome! I got down to -10lbs this past cycle, still have a bit of work to do but getting closer...
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Post by hmarcroft on Nov 10, 2016 1:25:56 GMT -7
Are you guys actually closing off your crimp or are you doing a half crimp while training the micro crimp? I have only trained that hold open handed with a bit if slippage trouble which has made it harder to train than I'd like.
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Post by erick on Nov 10, 2016 9:32:56 GMT -7
I'm in a fully closed crimp. It's super stressful on my fingers but I feel like training this grip gets my fingers ready for it on real rock. I also train the semi closed grip (middle of svder as open handed as possible) and fully open (largest edge of the Lvder) I have not felt the need to train the half crimp with these other grips.
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Post by hmarcroft on Nov 12, 2016 11:48:16 GMT -7
I've tried using full crimp on it to mitigate the slip factor, but it's just way to stressful on the fingers to be a good go to for regular training for me. Right now I can hang off of it with my base weight and an open grip, but repeaters are completely out of the question right now(This is due to the slip factor which tends to happen on either reps 2 or 3) so I have been trying to incorporate the micro crimp in more of a max hang fashion to at least get some sort of improvement. What is everyones thoughts on this?
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Post by joev9 on Nov 15, 2016 13:53:53 GMT -7
Half/open crimp. I'm too old to risk training the closed crimp and have enough experience (25+ years of climbing) to use it when I need it outside.
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