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Post by jetjackson on Oct 2, 2015 10:59:53 GMT -7
Nice! I'll be back in the Red again next year, but will probably be pushing it to crack the 5.12d barrier. If you can boulder V4 and don't mind 2 finger pockets Jesus Wept is for you. It's generally considered somewhat soft for the grade. If you are climbing anywhere near that range and have the chance I'd recommend giving it a shot. If nothing else it gives you a longer term goal to shoot for. There's a reason it's one of the most often searched routes on red river climbing. Cheers, Ben My 2 finger pocket strength is the weakest grip at the moment, I am at -25 lbs after 5 sessions. Whereas I am already at -15 on the 1/4 pad crimp. We will see, I either flash or get most V4's in the gym in 2-3 tries, but am yet to test that outside (plastic grades are plastic). Goal at the moment is a 5.12a that I have been working on, by the end of the year, but best send is still only 5.11b. I'm in my first proper RP training cycle, so we will see how that pans out. I'm booked in to Hueco tanks for March next year, and going to run a bouldering focussed cycle into that, followed by an endurance cycle in the season after that - to have me climbing mid 5.12 by August next year. We will see, but I'd be surprised if I'm climbing at 5.12d at that stage, unless I see some huge gains in the cycles. On the pinch, I've adjusted my form, and it is definitely more difficult. I have to resist rolling my thumb into a side position in the final reps on sets.
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