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Post by Lundy on Aug 19, 2015 18:13:08 GMT -7
I would say if you only have six weeks to prep for the Red, and you're used to climbing at Smith, I would probably skip HB altogether and just work on your power and power endurance. You will almost certainly not find a hold at the Red you can't hang, at least in the same grade range as you climb at Smith. It's just a question of how many good holds in a row you can hold until your forearms explode and you pop off.
Regarding number of holds, I think Mark has said in a bunch of different threads that the key is specificity. It's too much to train everything effectively, so focus your training on what you're going to climb on. For me that's pockets and crimps/ledges. I keep one pinch in my HB workout just cause I absolutely suck at them, so I want to work on that weakness.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 19, 2015 18:15:43 GMT -7
RE: "So many holds?" That depends on a lot of factors. It's better to think in terms of # of sets, or TUT (Time Under Tension). I do 6 grip, 3 sets per grip (plus 2 warmup sets), so 20 total sets. I use 7/3 rep timing, so a set averages 42 seconds of TUT. So that's 840 seconds TUT total for the workout.
It sounds like you're doing 2 sets per grip, so you could do 10 grips and have the same TUT (assuming you're also doing 7/3 reps; if you're doing 10/5, or something else, adjust accordingly).
That said, should you have the same TUT as me? Maybe/maybe not. I'm old. If you're young maybe you can handle more. On the other hand, I've been doing this a long time, my body is used to it. You're new to this, so it's a good idea to start out erring on the side of under-doing-it. I would recommend a TUT in the range of 10 minutes for someone just starting out with this type of training, unless you've already been climbing for a while at a pretty high level.
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Post by yogicleo1 on Aug 19, 2015 20:10:06 GMT -7
Excellent! Thanks for the advice Mark! Any and every little bit helps
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