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Post by Charlie S on Aug 31, 2015 18:44:29 GMT -7
It looks like nobody's thought much at all about that board in at least a decade  An unnamed gym has super nice rungs...but they're spaced in 5.5" (L), 4.75" (M), and 4.5" (S) spacings. |
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Post by Chris W on Sept 4, 2015 17:43:18 GMT -7
So I noticed today that I have a hard time keeping my pinkie finger on while campusing, especially on the medium rungs. If I grip the medium rungs open hand (definitely stronger open hand) I can really only fit the IMR on the rungs. Large rungs are a bit easier.
Any thoughts on 3 finger campusing? It seems like, due to anatomical limitations, it will either be 3 finger open hand or 4 finger pseudo-half-crimp grip campusing on the medium rungs.
Granted, this was the first campus session of my power phase today. Campusing felt a bit extra bumbly...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 4, 2015 19:33:58 GMT -7
Lots of folks campus with IMR. I don't. I figure 4 has got to be better than 3 in the long run, even if you have to take a few steps backward in the near term to learn how to use your pinky.
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Post by Lundy on Sept 4, 2015 19:49:17 GMT -7
Lots of folks campus with IMR. I don't. I figure 4 has got to be better than 3 in the long run, even if you have to take a few steps backward in the near term to learn how to use your pinky. This. Also, not sure if it's true, but I've read that it's easier on your elbows if you don't try to keep your hands "straight on". So by rotating your elbows out a bit, it puts your pinkie in a better position to engage the rung. Not sure if this is true, but I think I got it from Gimme Kraft, which is a pretty good resource. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 4, 2015 20:39:41 GMT -7
That makes sense to me. It's definitely a great idea to keep your elbows flexed, and I can see how keeping your pinkies on could help force that elbow bend.
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Post by rob on Sept 4, 2015 23:57:26 GMT -7
I used to campus with 3 fingers, my pinky is way off when using open hand. I never had any issues with it at the time, in fact when I stopped trying to add the pinky it made it much easier.
I switched to the chisel/ semi-crimp grip I think Mark uses when I built my home campus board simply because the grip seemed better suited to the rungs / board angle and after using it I would have to agree with the previous comments, I think it helps keep the shoulders flexed more and is possibly safer for the reason Mark mentioned. It doesn't take too long to adjust to, but does feel strange at first.
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Post by Chris W on Sept 5, 2015 3:10:59 GMT -7
Interesting. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try to pay close attention to this on my next session. I have a lot of space to improve in campusing. I can dead hang the rungs no problem, but latching them dynamically is a real challenge. I never did ANY dynamic climbing or training, much less touched a campus board, prior to the RCTM coming out. Now, I'm trying harder routes and need new skills.  |
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Post by slimshaky on Sept 6, 2015 14:18:55 GMT -7
the first couple times i tried campusing i was using IMR open grip also. at that time, i didn't incorporate the 4 finger half/open grip in my hangboard workouts. i was flailing kind of miserably and a really strong climber (taylor roy, super good guy and a great climber) pointed out that i should add my pinky. i wasn't too sure about that, it seemed really weird to try to get my pinky on the rungs. my pinky is WAY shorter than my other 3 fingers. he also pointed out that 4 is better than 3 (like others have). so, i worked with it a bit and added this grip to my HB workouts. it took a lot of work, but i think it was worth it. i really use this grip outside a lot more effectively now.
i think the 4 finger half grip has a better geometry for latching the rung. sort of like how a full crimp helps with your angle of attack on a crappy crimp, the half crimp just seems to give you a better contact angle. i have to rotate my elbows pretty far out also. i think this might be kind of hard on the elbows, but i monitor it pretty closely.
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Post by Chris W on Sept 8, 2015 10:31:41 GMT -7
So I hit the campus board today and set a bunch of new PB's. I tried to focus on keeping the half crimp grip (all 4 fingers on) and, with the right focus, the medium rungs felt more solid than ever before. I found that if I focused on keeping my fingers together (gently pressing the sides of all my fingers against each other) it kept my hand in a good half crimp position when I hit the rungs.
Success could be due to getting better, getting stronger, learning how to campus, etc. I think it's a combination of all of the above, but the little tweak (in technique) sure helped. Hit 1,3,5 on the large rungs, 1,3,4 on medium and snagged 1,3,4.5 on medium but couldn't stay on to match. Finally completed a set of matching ladders and basic ladders on the medium rungs as well.
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Post by rob on Sept 8, 2015 10:41:49 GMT -7
Nice one Chris! You will no longer be the king of the "I suck at campusing club" if you carry on like that.
Makes me psyched to get back into training (especially campusing) soon!
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Post by Alex K on Feb 4, 2016 12:36:49 GMT -7
Hi guys,
I just started training and even though I am still in the Base fitness phase, I would like to plan ahead for the power phase. My issue is that My gym does not have a campus board. I already bought the hang board and will install it at home, but is it realistic to buy a campus board for home? has anyone done this? and if so, what does it take to install? Also, are there other alternative power training methods that don't involve a campus board in case I cannot get access to one?
thanks!
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Post by joev9 on Feb 4, 2016 13:28:55 GMT -7
Alex, limit bouldering is probably a bigger part of power training than the campus board. The key is to create true "limit" problems that focus on your performance goals (wall angle, hold type, movement patterns, etc.). You can build a campus board at home but it takes up a lot more room than a hangboard does. A typical campus board is 4 feet wide and 6 feet tall with an overhang of 12 to 15 degrees. Metolius makes great rungs that you can guy here: www.metoliusclimbing.com/campus_rungs.html You can make your own rungs, but they really need to be exactly the same for each rung. |
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Post by alexandra on Feb 5, 2016 18:43:38 GMT -7
thanks! so, since I don't have immediate access to a campus board would it be best to substitute the campus days with limit bouldering days instead? so just do limit bouldering the whole power phase and no campusing? Or do you think that campus board makes one progress that much faster, in which case I d better start building one:)
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Post by daustin on Feb 6, 2016 18:59:55 GMT -7
thanks! so, since I don't have immediate access to a campus board would it be best to substitute the campus days with limit bouldering days instead? so just do limit bouldering the whole power phase and no campusing? Or do you think that campus board makes one progress that much faster, in which case I d better start building one:) I think the answer to all of your questions in this post is "yes" |
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Post by Lundy on Feb 6, 2016 21:05:53 GMT -7
Hi Alexandra,
A number of us on this forum have built campus boards at home -- it's not really that hard, and if designed well, can be relatively small and out of the way. The bigger issue I can foresee is that in order to be ready to campus, you need to be really well warmed up, and in my opinion that would be near impossible without doing some climbing. So it's not just a matter of building the campus board at home -- you'd also need a woody to warm up on, which is obviously a much bigger effort.
Just my two cents.
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