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Back 2
Nov 11, 2016 10:42:34 GMT -7
Post by tedwelser on Nov 11, 2016 10:42:34 GMT -7
I'm back to wondering if I should try to train my RP grip. I tried switching my RPTC sloper to the Forge sloper because the grip seemed to be getting too easy. That was a disaster, because the forge sloper seems impossible right now to hang. Training the sloper seems to help, at least mentally, but I'm wondering if my energy would be better spent elsewhere. Right now I'm doing: -Warm up (jug and large edge) -SVDER open hand -MR 2 finger pocket -Forge crimp -IM 2 finger pocket -Wide Pinch -RPTC sloper I've considered replacing the sloper with a RP 2 finger pocket or adding the RP grip before the sloper, which would increase my total number of grips to one over what is recommended in the advanced protocol. I've re-read the post about the effectiveness of training slopers on the hangboard. Any thoughts? I do run into slopers or sloping edges on my local rock... One thing that I don't understand about some of the arguments against training slopers on a hangboard is that even if slopers are more condition dependent, this does not mean that the training effect is not occurring, it just means that the level of resistance necessary for achieving the desired training effect varies more due to external factors, and thus the training weights utilized will not necessarily make a convenient measure of progress. And as your own coach, it is necessary to adjust the weight, and also, work hard to keep the conditions consistent. The other part, that slopers require a longer chain of muscles to fully engage may well be true, but that simply implies that sloper training should not be limited to HB work, but necessarily needs additional limit bouldering work. What about using the sloper above the pinch on the Forge? You can engage your thumb and it is sort of slopey, and it is certainly a deep hold that requires some wrist flexion to hold. Perhaps a season or two with that will build some wrist strength that will help with slopers outside and on the forge sloper, and it has the advantage of being deep enough that you pinky can stay engaged. I had this grip in my workout until it started to get into added weight range that bugged my shoulders. I will add that deep open hand holds certainly help at the new and on eastern sandstone generally. I think training deeper holds that engage all 4 fingers is good specificity that can pay off. I had the nice experience this season of repeating a local boulder problem while accidentally skipping a good edge, just because the cruxy sloper was now easy to match on. Also, I used to do RP for several season, but I dropped it finally this fall because it is hard not to load it at a funny angle, and once I got to heavier weight I wondered it if was still worth it. However, I can say that I think training RP was beneficial and helped catch my RP up to my other fingers somewhat. I actually started on RP on the RPTC jug, and worked up cautiously till I felt like my connective tissues had gotten habituated to using just those two fingers. I had several seasons with doing IM and RP after that. Eventually I moved to medium and shallow 2 finger pockets on the RPTC, but I was taking weight off with those. My final set PR for shallow RP was -65 in winter, and corresponding final pr was -40 this summer. I think I mentioned before that my goal for RP had been to offset the weakness I noticed in my pinky when I crimped-- I suspected that was because it was underutilized because my default had been to avoid crimps and if you open hand shallow edges your pinky does not get involved. Now with the forge, I feel better prepared to train crimps directly, on the crimp and the slimper and dropped the RP to be able to put more time into these more mainstream grips. I think that the RP was a super helpful stepping stone grip, and might be good for others who tend to open hand everything possible and need to do some pre-reqs before training crimps directly.
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kader
New Member
Posts: 37
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Back 2
Mar 3, 2017 17:53:08 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by kader on Mar 3, 2017 17:53:08 GMT -7
Hi,
I am having trouble hanging on back two on the beastmaker back two holds
I am failing because of the shear force between my middle and ring finger. Feels like the skin is going to split in two
Any safe way of hanging from back two?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 3, 2017 19:47:49 GMT -7
Ya, that's pretty common whenever doing front 2 or back to. There is this stuff called "fascia" which connects the finger bones in the hand. Training these grips puts a ton of stress on the fascia. Fortunately fascia is useless, but straining it can be quite painful and make it hard to give your best effort. One option is to have hand surgery to remove your fascia (joking, however, there is a study online about a hand surgeon who did this to himself with some very interesting conclusions and freaky pictures).
What I do is maintain my hand/finger posture in such a way that it minimizes the strain on the fascia. I do this by holding something loosely in my inactive fingers. I use a pair of empty film canisters (if you're under 30, "film" is this stuff people used to use to take pictures--google it). It will probably take some trial and error to figure out what works for you.
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kader
New Member
Posts: 37
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Back 2
Mar 3, 2017 22:52:55 GMT -7
Post by kader on Mar 3, 2017 22:52:55 GMT -7
Thanks Mark
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Back 2
May 15, 2017 8:53:29 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by D-junk on May 15, 2017 8:53:29 GMT -7
I train mono hangs a lot, due to the area I live and the pocketed climbing around, and always struggle with that "tarring" sensation but after reading what Mark said about grasping something like a film canister with the other fingers during the hang it's much less painful to train this grip. This forum is filled with excellent nuggets of wisdom. Thanks to all who input here, super good stuff!
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Back 2
May 23, 2017 2:54:22 GMT -7
Post by stephrascasse on May 23, 2017 2:54:22 GMT -7
I trained back 2 a lot, and had huge gain on this specific hold on repeaters(from -33 lbs to +10 lbs). I noticed that this gains are quite durable, as I manage to quickly do back 2 repeaters at body-weight even untrained However, maybe some bad luck, but this year I slightly injured each ring finger on this specific hold, so for the moment I stop training it. I think you must be REALLY cautious on your feelings and try not to push as hard as on other grip because injury come quicker IMO. For information, the injury was probably of pulley tear at the basis of the ring finger, 1 week without climbing plus 2 weeks of easy climbing. Quite quick because I stopped directly at first sign of pain.
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dan
New Member
Posts: 17
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Back 2
Jun 23, 2017 10:21:47 GMT -7
Post by dan on Jun 23, 2017 10:21:47 GMT -7
Chris: I don't train the sloper grip regularly. However, my project last Spring had a crux sequence involving a heinous sloper move. So, I worked the sloper into my HB workout and did end up sending the route on a cool, breezy day. I'd say go with the sloper if your local routes have them.
Also, I never ended up training the RP combo.
Cheers, Dan
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Back 2
Jun 23, 2017 13:14:03 GMT -7
Post by srossabi42 on Jun 23, 2017 13:14:03 GMT -7
I've started training RP this cycle. I tried it last cycle, but felt the shearing sensation between M and R fingers. I did MRP instead and got this grip up to about +20 lbs. RP at -50 lbs on the deep pocket on the inside of RPTC is now pretty comfortable, no more of the shearing sensation. I never tried the holding something in IM idea.
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Back 2
Aug 19, 2017 15:17:50 GMT -7
Post by RobF on Aug 19, 2017 15:17:50 GMT -7
Am woefully weak with back 2. Back 2'ing shopping bags might be a useful starting point if bodyweight seems far away. A minor point - but the back 2 are supplied by the ulna nerve (vs the median nerve for other fingers). There is a relatively recent ailment known as cell phone elbow (cubital tunnel syndrome)where the ulna nerve is stretched from prolonged elbow flexion. Need to put that phone away if you want to get them thin cracks done...
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