I thought I'd add in this video of a limit boulder problem a friend set for me 8 months ago. It has about 6 clips of me working the moves over time and slowly progressing, and then the whole problem at the end.
I sent it this week, and was pretty stoked, as originally I thought it might be a multi-year project. Working it taught me a few things, firstly, that I don't try hard enough stuff outside, and that my gauge for what is possible for me is not really great. I.e. that I hop on a problem and give it a shot and then decide whether I think I should work it or not - yeah, I don't think I'm great at that, and so I'm trying to get on harder things that initially may not seem possible initially.
The other things were, it was set by a short friend, who bunched me up at the start as much as possible, so I really learnt to launch off awkward legs on bad holds, which I've since used outside. Also, I really learnt to dig in my weight on my feet while going for the dead-point move, in a way I didn't realize was possible before - I thought I was good at that, but this took it to a higher level.
Speaks to the value of having a friend set something for you on your own board too.
Last Edit: Nov 6, 2018 2:18:03 GMT -7 by jetjackson
Should you try to even out your limit boulder problems? If your first problem involves a hard throw to a small crimp with your right hand, should you be sure your second problem involves a hard move with your left hand?
No, you definitely want your right hand to be better at latching dynos than your left.
Not sure if serious?
Chris - not sure if you are referring to the video I posted - in that I go from a hard move to catch RH crimp, then I bump through two moves with the left, but the LH is super strenuous, so I feel I get an even workout on both.
I have another couple of intermediate deadpoint problems on the board that I can alternate either LH or RH lead. Usually though, if I'm doing a limit session, alternating between hands isn't even a choice in the end, as if I just did hard moves to RH, it would end up really sore. Alternating between hands allows the session to go longer.
Nope, I was pretty much looking for the answer Mark gave.
Jet, for better or worse, my "limit" problems are usually about 2-3 brutal moves. I allow my "WBL" problems to be a little longer. I just realized I had a movement bias in my limit problems. I tend to look for inspiration for my limit problems in the outdoors, and by coincidence the two "limit" problems that served as inspiration both involved hard throws to tiny crimps with my R hand.
In the short term, I guess this isn't too bad, since I got my bottom beaten yesterday by a problem that involves locking off a half pad crimp with the left and pulling hard up into a half-pad right hand slot-crimp. For the long run, I should even things out.
I just realized I had a movement bias in my limit problems. I tend to look for inspiration for my limit problems in the outdoors, and by coincidence the two "limit" problems that served as inspiration both involved hard throws to tiny crimps with my R hand.
This is the exact thing which sold me on the tension board. After working one side I switch it to the mirrored version to work the imbalance.
Are the moon problems applicable to outdoor climbing?
I would say that they are more applicable than the campus board - when it comes to training power. I've basically dropped campus altogether and just focus on moonboard and my own LB problems at home for power.
Personally, I'm not really sold on the tension board - mostly because of the wooden holds, which at a new gym in Melbourne, were basically trashed and polished about 3 weeks after being installed, maybe at home it would be ok - less newer climbers scuffing it up as they learn better foot technique. It also seems to me that Tension are too concerned with what the holds look like, rather than the practicality of the hold as a training tool. Being able to train either side is okay, but do we really struggle that much with gaining balance across our dominant and non-dominant side? Are imbalances that easily created? I had a play around on the Tension board and for the most part I was always able to do the problem both ways - just my personal experience.
Last Edit: Jan 3, 2019 19:43:41 GMT -7 by jetjackson
I love the idea of having a range of problems to choose from, but my current weaknesses involve hard moves from and to small crimps with tiny feet on rock that's usually around 10-15 degrees overhanging. It's difficult to set problems with holds small enough on my 15 wall, so I'm currently compromising by setting problems on my 35 wall with one-pad crimps and small foot chips (as opposed to 1/2 pad crimps on my 15 wall).
I was under the impression that the angle of both the moon and tension boards would be too steep and the holds too large.