About a week and a half ago I heard a loud pop that felt like it was in my ring finger a4. There is slight pain when I press on the a4 and minimal inflammation. The last week and a half I've been doing daily rehab (glides, ricebucket, contrast baths, acupressure ring.) I was planning on starting a reduced weight hangboard cycle. Thoughts from the pros?
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I meant to include that I planned to start the hangboard rehab this Sunday or midweek next week. I was also planning on removing about 50 pounds. (I weigh 175). Do you have recommendations for what kind of grips I should be aiming to use?
As for weight, hanging should produce a "mild familiar discomfort" that dissipates and doesn't return once you stop hanging on it. A4 is tough since most holds will reproduce pain from direct pressure on the A4. So, take off whatever weight you have to to reproduce that discomfort without leaving any lasting pain.
If you haven't seen it, Matt DeStefano wrote this compilation of protocols from several different experts. It's long but helpful to have in one place.
Also, for me the acupressure ring seems to aggravate pulley injuries by applying direct pressure to the injured area. I always feel like that outweighs the benefits, but your experience might be different.
Update: so I've got my pulley system rigged up and have load tested 2 finger pocket hang with a 40 pound reduction. (Middle and ring finger.) Doing this for 10 seconds x 5 with 3 minute rests in between doesn't cause any pain. Should I continue this regime for a week or two before removing 5 pounds a week?
Post by cirquebound on Apr 18, 2019 9:13:09 GMT -7
For what it is worth - I fully ruptured my A4 (Ultra-sound to confirm) on my pinkie last July. I splinted for 1 week. Then rested and reduced the inflammation for one week. Regained as much ROM in my second week before and jumped into conservative hangboarding on the 3rd week. Reduced the weight (normal +50lbs) to -50BBW Then adjusted as pain allowed and comfort increased. For me it took a month to return to +50lbs and I continued to climb the whole time and didnt full crimp until it felt alright to start crimping (which I tested on a HB) to determine where the tissue was before attempting it while climbing.
Good to know! I believe I may have jumped the gun not wanting to admit my injury was as bad as i thought it might be. I ended up jumping straight into rom exercises the first week with no immobilization and started hangboarding with reduced weight by two and a half weeks. My last hangboard session left me feeling pretty darn sore and stiff the following morning, so i decided to back off and do another week or two of range of motion/active rest on some 5.8 climbs with no crimps. Hopefully I didnt mess it up too badly in rushing it.
Post by cirquebound on Apr 22, 2019 7:13:36 GMT -7
I have found that over the years - that the soreness is a great indicator of your rehab. The session you describe above sounds like you just went too hard. A good ROT is if the pain is dull and not acute and is sore the next day that is fine. If the soreness last more than 2 days of rest - you have gone too hard and the next session needs to be dialed back. Use the ROM to evaluate where the fingers is before you jump back into another hang.
Gotcha. Yeah it was stiff for a couple days following that hang session. I decided to splint my finger for a few days which has it feeling much better. I'm going to climb tomorrow on some easy stuff and see how I feel the next day. If I'm not too sore I think I'll hop back on the hangboard