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Post by daustin on Apr 20, 2018 9:40:22 GMT -7
Quick update: per JCM's routine, I've started doing finger rolls as a warm up exercise before I do a shortened repeaters workout (just half crimp and full crimp, 3 sets each). So I'll wake up before work, drink part of a protein shake and take a caffeine pill (no time for coffee!), go into the garage and do a 5x20 finger roll exercise, with progressively higher loads across sets. I rest 4 mins between sets and do other full body warming up then -- some stretching, bodyweight squats, band work for shoulders, scapular pull ups, etc.
All in all this takes about ~20 minutes, and then I go straight into repeaters, 3 sets each of half crimp on the SVDER and then full crimp on the 8mm edge. I was nervous that going straight from rolls to hangs wouldn't do enough to warm up my fingers, but after 6 workouts where I've steadily increased loads, it hasn't felt tweaky at all. I might even go so far to say that it feels less tweaky than when I actually warm up on the hangboard, though maybe that's just positive thinking.
I haven't taken any measurements for forearm hypertrophy and I haven't seen any noticeable changes in forearm size, but so far it's making me feel warmer before my hangs and I still feel like I'm stable or even slightly improving when I climb at the gym 1x per week, so I'll stick with it for now...
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Post by jcm on Apr 20, 2018 12:38:26 GMT -7
^^^ Awesome, glad to hear it’s working for you. My routine this winter/spring is almost identical- 3 sets of finger rolls, then 3 sets each of half crimp and full crimp. Plus some supplemental dumbbell excercises between sets. I do it at lunch, though. I’ve liked it. It’s a really abbreviated workout, but packs a lot of value into 45 minutes.
I was able to make slow-but steady gains on this during Feb-March this year. Gains are slower than if you do a more extensive hangboard workout, but due to the lower volume I haven’t experienced any burnout. Longer hangboard workouts seem to burn me out after about 10 sessions / 4 weeks.
I did it 2-3 times per week, plus one day gym bouldering, during winter strength training. Now that I’m transitioning into late spring sport climbing I’m doing this once a week for strength maintenance. I’m interested to see how it works for in-season maintenance. I suspect that the lowered volume will work well for that, allowing maintenance without adding too much fatigue.
I also find that going straight from rolls to crimping is surprisingly non-tweaky. After the rolls, and one easy set on the board to start, I can basically try max effort on the board without issue.
The other quirks of my program is that I’m doing all my “hangs” using a flash board on a lat pull down machine. But that’s another post...
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robin
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by robin on Jun 30, 2018 2:39:42 GMT -7
The other quirks of my program is that I’m doing all my “hangs” using a flash board on a lat pull down machine. But that’s another post... Hi. This is very relevant to my current situation. Do you mind sharing the details? Such as how to you deal with the large weight increases n the stack? The machine i have available has jumps in 4,5kg (10pounds i think) increments.
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Post by srossabi42 on Jul 1, 2018 8:25:44 GMT -7
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