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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 23, 2015 8:41:57 GMT -7
Nice! Full number grade up? Haven't been there, but I've heard Gunks grades are pretty stiff. Out of curiosity, what is your hardest clipping bolts? A couple 12bs. I haven't had a lot of opportunity to get on many hard things because there's not a lot of sport climbing in southern NY or nearby. The Gunks is stiff but I think that mellows out a little once you get past 5.10. The 12s I've been on at the Gunks seem maybe a letter hard whereas 9s and 10s can be a fair bit stiffer relatively speaking |
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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 23, 2015 8:54:19 GMT -7
Rob sounds like it's time for you to go full Urban Surfer!!
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Post by robdebruyn on Nov 23, 2015 9:43:09 GMT -7
Jon, I've thought about putting it on the list for next year! There are so many good climbs in that range though that it's hard to decide. Thin Man, Beat Junkie, Coral Sea, Cote D'Azure, Roaring Silence, Concrete Jungle... There's definitely no lack of good 5.13 projects to keep busy here in Rumney.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 23, 2015 15:45:02 GMT -7
Sent The Sting (11d/12a) at the Gunks today!!!! Hardest gear ascent by at least a number That route looks sick! I've long wanted to do it but it always seems to be seeping when I'm there. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 23, 2015 16:02:50 GMT -7
I have been climbing for 3.5 years now and set 2 goals for this year. I just hit my second one Friday. My first was 13b and the second was V10. I have never been more stoked to start another training cycle. Your book is that main reason I have achieved both of these goals. Thank you. Wow, that's really impressive considering your short tenure in the sport. I'm sure you will continue to improve for a long time to come. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 23, 2015 16:05:22 GMT -7
A few people have commented that it must be a hard decision to put off redpoint attempts until the spring in order to start my winter training. I actually found that decision to be quite an easy one to make, armed with my new knowledge of what 4 months of training can accomplish. I'm happily welcoming the return of spreadsheets and hangboard timers, content to wait patiently for the day that I can return stronger than ever to take this thing down. I'm comforted in knowing that if I see anywhere near the gains that I did this fall, it may not even be that much of a fight. Perhaps the best part of all this is shift in perspective of what is achievable. Two years ago, I had thought these grades impossible for me to attain, and had the mindset of, “If I could ever send one 5.13 I would be totally satisfied.” Of course, after one goal is accomplished, we set our sights on a higher one. I'm confident that through well designed, focused training, I can look forward to many years of achieving new “impossibles”. Thanks Mark and Mike for creatingthe best climbing training resource available! Congratulations and very well said. Still, I can't believe you pumped out at the chains! Heartbreaking!  |
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Post by avaserfi on Dec 11, 2015 18:05:54 GMT -7
I just got back from Hueco Tanks. I train consistently, but rarely have time to make it outside. In fact, this is the first time in nearly a year that I've gotten to go outside and try hard. There have been a few quick trips to Austin, but in hot weather not during my peak training time. This trip was only three days and my training schedule had me peaking for bouldering to make the most of it. Day 1The big goal for the trip was the classic highball See Spot Run (V6). Last trip to Hueco I cruised passed the crux, but had some mental issues as I got higher. Poor breathing, tense movement, pumping out etc. A nice warmup and See Spot went down on my third attempt - the first couple were ironing out the nerves. The send was very smooth and in control. Everything clicked and I was no were near my physical or mental limit. A great feeling, but my project for the trip was done. I wasn't really ready for it to end so quickly. We spent the rest of day one climbing more moderate classics like Sign of the Cross and exploring parts of North Mountain we hadn't seen. I spent the night deciding what to work next. Day 2Mostly a bust, but still fun. Nothing really got sent. I wanted to get on Baby Face (V7), but with only two people and two pads I couldn't reach the start holds. I ended up working Daily Dick Dose (V7) using some fairly strenuous beta. I got passed the crux, but slipped on the final attempt of the day via stupid mistake from being tired. Later that night, I ran into some climbers who suggested beta that would let me static the crux rather than lunging from a small crimp to a very small crimp. (neither of the videos are of me climbing, just the two different betas I tried) Day 3 Warmed up again and headed back to DDD. It took a couple attempts to get used to the new beta, but the problem went down on my third go. It also felt very easy. We went to New Meadow to try out the classic Lobsterclaw (V5) after making quick work of DDD. I spent a few attempts trying the fancy kneebar beta. I was mostly playing around because I don't have much experience with kneebars and figured this would be a good time to practice. The kneebar worked in isolation for me, but linking the problem with the kneebar beta wasn't happening. I ended up just grabbing the send using the classic beta. By this point my friend and I are wrecked. 3 days straight climbing and trying hard. It was a blast, ending way too soon. After sending See Spot, I was a little hesitant to try anything really hard. I hated the feeling of having the project open for so long. I'm convinced I could have sent harder problems than DDD. When I sent DDD, it felt easy. I did the crux move a few more times after the send to see if it was a fluke. Next time, I think I'll have loftier goals and plans, just in case it all goes a little too well. Whatever the case, the trip was great. Last time I climbed hard outside my hardest send was T Bone Shuffle (V4) about ten months ago. I would say that training has worked wonders! I'm continuing the training into PE with the hopes to get outside at the local (3.5 hours away) crag to knock out a few goal routes in the low to mid 12 range. For reference my Hangboard personal bests from my recent cycle - all using 3 set scheme 7on/3off with 3 minute breaks on the RPTC: IM Med +25 S VDER Crimp (smallest section of the vedge, the actual crimp it too harsh on my skin) +20 MR Med +10 S VDER semi-closed crimp pointer on first nub +7.5 Large Pinch -15 (I've seen minimal gains on this grip) Campus personal best: 1-4-6 on small rungs with standard spacing 15 degree wall. Fairly low start. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 11, 2015 19:40:06 GMT -7
Awesome work! Improving three V-grades in one year is massive. See Spot Run is so classic. Never tried DDD, but I've watched people on it and it looks really fun. Great job!
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Post by daveholliday on Dec 16, 2015 10:57:28 GMT -7
i'm finishing up my first cycle and i'm very happy with the results so far. a bit of background: i learned to climb somewhat late in life compared to a lot of people around here (i started 12 years ago when i was 35). i finally got serious about trying to get stronger a couple of years ago. for the past two years, i did a group training class taught by Juan Usubillaga at the Boulder Rock Club. it was periodized with eight-week cycles and focused on power, power endurance, and performance exercises. besides getting me stronger, it gave me a good training mentality for climbing. (i've done heart-rate based training for bike racing in the past so i'm not new to structured athletic training in general.) anyway, the class is no longer offered so this summer i decided to embark on the rock prodigy program. i've never had trouble motivating myself to train and work hard so i thought that this program would be a good fit for me. plus, the idea of tracking workouts and progress in detail appealed to the pedantic, engineer side of my personality.
i learned to climb in eldorado canyon and it's still my favourite local destination. my short-term, generic goal was to climb more 11s there. i've done a couple of the easier and safer 11s over the years but i was always getting my ass kicked attempting anything harder. during this cycle, i ended up sending two 11-s, three mid 11s, and i was one fall from redpointing an 11+. my eldo goal for next fall/winter is to redpoint every pitch of the naked edge and for the year after is to onsight the money pitch of jules verne. there's no doubt in my mind that i'll be able to achieve those goals (and my longer-term ones) by sticking with this program.
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Post by erick on Jan 1, 2016 11:53:03 GMT -7
Just wrapped up the last cycle of 2015. Each cycle ended with a climbing trip which was perfect for testing my new fitness. First cycle ended early spring with a trip to smith rocks. Where I send my first 12c "Chain Reaction" second go. The second performance phase took place at Maple Canyon, and by the end of the trip I had sent a pumpy 12c "Hooked on Estrogen" and four 5.12 onsights (2 @ 12a/2 @ 12b) which were new bests since my previous onsight best was 11d. The last performance phase took place at Red Rocks and was a great experiment in training for specific routes. I really wanted to climb 'The Gift' 12d so I tailored my training for it. I think I totally nailed the fitness needed with my LBC workouts; the hold type, move number, and wall angle were perfect. On my onsight attempt I felt great, a little pumped but manageable. As I moved into the final crux sequence I skipped the last clip and blew the final move.  After a finding new beta for the upper crux I finished the route and gained my first 12d redpoint. We also took a break from red rocks and did a few days of bouldering in Bishop. I have never been very good at bouldering but I made a few fast sends of some could problems and nearly flashed Siagon which would have been my hardest flash ever/hardest problem ever. Unfortunately could could never again reach my high point after the flash attempt because of wrecked skin but it was cool to see that even if I could not climb V8/9 in one session I could work the moves and with time I potentially could climb that hard. Now that the year is over I am excited to get training for Smith in the spring! |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 1, 2016 15:31:42 GMT -7
Awesome! Those are some really impressive onsights (and close calls) relative to your redpoint sends. It sounds like you could redpoint much harder than you have if you wanted to put more time in.
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Post by erick on Jan 1, 2016 22:24:41 GMT -7
Mark,
Thanks I think that projecting in one of my weaknesses, I almost never do it. Most routes I get on I can finish in about 4 attempts. I got on 'supersplash' 13b the last day and I could work most of the moves and did feel like I could have sent that route with a lot of time putting it together. I need to find a hard long term project and give it a try.
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Post by amalec on Jan 12, 2016 12:58:34 GMT -7
After > 12 months of religious adherence to RCTM bouldering program, I've made modest progress. Sent my project in Bishop (Ketron Classic), did a few local problems I haven't been able to do before, and am making more consistent progress on other local projects. OTOH, the gains have been modest -- maybe a V-grade progress in a year? OTOOH, at 45, perhaps I can't hope for more, and if I can eke out a V-grade every year, I'll be crushing V9 at 49 Hard to judge because weight has fluctuated, and perhaps that affected both strength and strength/weight ratio. Am now lighter than I've ever been due to ketogenic dieting and if I can keep weight here (162-165# at 5'11") over the year, will be a good baseline to judge progress. I've switched to a Steve Bechtel approach: 4-week strength/power block, 4-week volume block to address the issues I was facing in the RCTM bouldering program with actual climbing time. Will cycle through Bechtel ladder approach, Maisch 10-second hang approach and 7/3 repeaters through the year. Will update to provide progress on how it's going. |
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Post by Danny on Jan 13, 2016 11:52:16 GMT -7
Amalec-
In my opinion it is possible to improve one bouldering grade per year (up to a point). I am younger than you at 28, but 2 years ago I climbed my first v9 and this year I climbed my first v10. This is interspersing other climbing goals as well. I did a season dedicated to bouldering, followed by a sport climbing season, followed by a trad climbing season, followed by an off season where I just went skiing. So in short, yes I think it is possible to improve one v grade a year.
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Post by James_E on Jan 13, 2016 12:30:20 GMT -7
After > 12 months of religious adherence to RCTM bouldering program, I've made modest progress. Sent my project in Bishop (Ketron Classic), did a few local problems I haven't been able to do before, and am making more consistent progress on other local projects. OTOH, the gains have been modest -- maybe a V-grade progress in a year? OTOOH, at 45, perhaps I can't hope for more, and if I can eke out a V-grade every year, I'll be crushing V9 at 49 Hard to judge because weight has fluctuated, and perhaps that affected both strength and strength/weight ratio. Am now lighter than I've ever been due to ketogenic dieting and if I can keep weight here (162-165# at 5'11") over the year, will be a good baseline to judge progress. I've switched to a Steve Bechtel approach: 4-week strength/power block, 4-week volume block to address the issues I was facing in the RCTM bouldering program with actual climbing time. Will cycle through Bechtel ladder approach, Maisch 10-second hang approach and 7/3 repeaters through the year. Will update to provide progress on how it's going. Stick with it. I found that for a while my progress in bouldering was slow (although my sport climbing progress was quite fast) but now after about a year of following the program I can feel my strength and power improving more quickly. I expect that I will see steady progress for a while and then progress through the grades will slow down. Also one thing to consider is that you are focusing too heavily on the physical aspects (e.g. strength and power) and not enough on skill acquisition and movement training. With bouldering I find that I can easily hang on the holds of harder projects but sometimes neglect the subtle body positions and tension necessary to do the moves. I have had several "ah-ha" moments when I realize that I'm strong enough to do a problem, but have just been doing it wrong (for me). |
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