Training Success/Breakthough Stories

[alexandra]

I have been climbing consistently for about 2.5 years and have been training for a year, focusing mostly on hang board and campus board, and some limit bouldering, though not as much as I should (hard to do this at my gym...)
last year before i started training, I was psyched to send my first V5, and then right after I started training I was psyched to send my first V6 which, however, was almost designed for my style (small crimps, crunched up positions, the revenge of short people style). At that time, every other V6 felt like a dream, and I was almost "scared" to work on them, thinking I would most likely not succeed if the moves are long or powerful due to my height (and lack of good technique /power). Last weekend, after working on my project for at least 6 long sessions (and getting beta tips from this forum) I sent my 3rd V6, which is really far away from my "style"(compression/ heel hooks/ slopers). I also got on some powerful V5's that were hard for me to do just 6 months ago and flew up on them. I got on some more V6's and could do all the moves first or second try (too tired to put them together), and now I am feeling completely ready to start working on climbs that are NOT my style in the V7/V8 range. This is one of the rare moments that I can sit back and say: yes, I have made progress. So thank you Mark and this forum for keeping me sane and strong this whole year!!

[MarkAnderson]

You're welcome! Great to see you're getting some good results.

[alexandra]

Even though not a great accomplishment, I am now at my Max Hangs phase of hang boarding and during my first session I PR'd the semi-closed crimp (small side of the small VDER) by 10 lbs from last cycle! I can now hang on it with +50 lbs added for 10 sec, at BW 120 It is nice to finally see some payoffs!!!

[MarkAnderson]

Wow, that's quite strong!

[Chris W]

So I had another fantastic spring season. Although I didn't send my project for the season, it's clear that my hard work training is paying off. I'm clearly (literally and figuratively) climbing much stronger. I'm clearly capable of sending a route that, 3 years ago, seemed impossible.

I had a fantastic trip to the New River Gorge this spring, and it was the most fun I've had on a climbing trip since my very first one (I was young, single and care free then). For starters, no one got sick! No fevers, chills, vomiting, sore throats or runny noses. I surprised myself on my first day by sending Pockets of Resistance 12a on my third go. It was only the second 12 route I've ever sent on the road. Apparently, the effort I used to spend to send an 11 will now allow me to send a 12. I also cruised up Legacy 11a out at endless wall. It was such a great feeling to have the fitness to relax and enjoy the route. It was perfect; bluebird skies, 50 degrees, little breeze, the whole gorge and a flood swollen river in the background and beautiful white and orange rock to climb on. I managed my first trad climb, the classic 5.2 guide route right to set up a top rope for the kids and then, third day on, totally crushed European Vacation 12b in only two tries on the Super Mario Boulder. On the last day of the trip, my body was totally trashed, but I went out to check out Toxic Hueco 11d at the Lower Meadow. I went up bolt to bolt to place the draws and could feel the obvious pump and fatigue just doing this, but my hands and fingers still felt strong. I rested for about 45 minutes, then went back up and sent the route. I decided to let that be the last climb of the trip to end it on a high note.

It's so cool to have a training method and plan of improvement that actually works. I have always been able and willing to work hard, but just didn't have a clue how to improve my climbing until Mark and Mike published their book. With a growing young family and professional job, I don't know any other way I could improve so efficiently. I don't follow the Rock Prodigy method exactly how it's laid out in the book, but I follow it pretty darn close (my training sessions aren't as long as often prescribed, so I cut out a lot of warm up time). The simple modifications/personalization I've made don't seem to be slowing down my gains.

Shoot, now the baby is crying. Off to bed

[srossabi42]

i managed my hardest onsight this past weekend, bah bah black sheep (12b) at main elk, when i stared training about a year and a half ago, redpointing 12b felt really far away, thanks so much for the training manual!
also sent best in show (12d) out there. both routes were put up by dave pegg, it always feels like an honor to pull on to his routes so i was psyched to send

[MarkAnderson]

Nice job! Do you live out there somewhere? Always looking for strategically located partners ...especially those not afraid of a long approach.

[srossabi42]

Thanks! Unfortunately I dont, i'm living in boulder at the moment, but i am hoping to do a lot more climbing out that way. I definitely am interested in checking out the fortress if that's what you're getting at 

[JamesC123]

Coming to the end of a long base fitness phase (about 2 months), as general forearm endurance is my biggest weakness. I've been out climbing for the past two weekends, and on the first weekend I had my best performance day ever, and on the second weekend I outdid the previous weekend and set a new record!

ARCing has been invaluable. I can't even be sure that any increase in capillarity has taken place, but the biggest thing ARCing has given me is the ability to rest. On every climb during these 2 weekends I found myself spotting great resting positions that I would've just ignored before and pumped off the wall a few feet up as a result.

I do have a question for Mark (or anyone else who has a response): Given that I've gotten so much from ARCing, and I feel that it's addressing (by far) my biggest weakness, would you recommend I finish up the training program in full or should I truncate the strength and power phases? Other than being able to hold onto smaller holds, will increasing finger strength yield any significant benefits?

[Chris W]

I think some of that depends on what you're climbing and what your goals are, but I'll bet that getting stronger and improving your power will only help you. I'd go through the full program.

[daveholliday]

i didn't do a lot of sending this last cycle (*) but i felt like i made some major improvements in my climbing. i worked my first 12 in eldo and after five lead attempts got things whittled down to one fall. i like steep climbing and it's one of the steepest routes i've been on in eldo. the crux involves climbing past small, but solid gear (blue alien, purple tcu) but the falls are clean. even though i didn't send the route, i felt like i climbed it well on my last attempts.

(*) i caught the flu at the start of my major road trip for the cycle and it took me most of the week to recover. towards the end of the trip i was finally able to climb hard but on single-pitch routes with relatively short approaches. it took probably another week after i got home to fully recover.

[jetjackson]

So wrapping up my 5th season, coming out of my hangboard cycle going into power training for a performance season of bouldering I was hoping to work some V6/7 problems outdoors - previous best V5 (Lobster Claw). Unfortunately due to rain I only got 1 weekend of bouldering in at the Grampians - got a V5 second go, worked a V6 and V7 with the hope of coming back to it, but it rained out every other weekend of my season. Instead I spent some time on the moon board - initially struggling with the easier 6C benchmark problems and maybe getting 2-3 done in a session. This week over two sessions I flashed 3 benchmark V5's, and got a couple of benchmark V6's. It doesn't seem like a lot, but I'm starting to really see the benefits of sticking with the program long term.

[jonfrisby]

Aug 6, 2017 1:41:13 GMT -7 jetjackson said:

So wrapping up my 5th season, coming out of my hangboard cycle going into power training for a performance season of bouldering I was hoping to work some V6/7 problems outdoors - previous best V5 (Lobster Claw). 

so you already climbed V6 eh?

That thing is so damn sandbagged since the top broke. Congrats though that is excellent progress

[stanleybaker]

On my second time through the training and just started campusing. Last period through 6ish campus sessions I could never get 1-3-5. Tried 6 times every time and just couldn't hit that 5th rung. Always had my fingers hitting in the middle of the rung (right hand) or not even close (left hand).

Today I was prepared for my 6 fails and got it on both sides on my first try.

God damn that felt good.

[jetjackson]

Aug 6, 2017 7:30:53 GMT -7 jonfrisby said:

Aug 6, 2017 1:41:13 GMT -7 jetjackson said:

So wrapping up my 5th season, coming out of my hangboard cycle going into power training for a performance season of bouldering I was hoping to work some V6/7 problems outdoors - previous best V5 (Lobster Claw). 

so you already climbed V6 eh?

That thing is so damn sandbagged since the top broke. Congrats though that is excellent progress

I'm not sure if I climbed it before or after the break. Climbed it in March 2016.

Went on an impromptu climbing trip this weekend courtesy of some good weather in the Gramps. Picked a 40 foot route that was essentially a couple of stacked boulder problems and expected I'd have to learn the moves and then maybe get it next season - got it on my 4th attempt. It was 26, or around 5.12b/c - hardest to date. Pretty stoked with progress despite no training power endurance, looking forward to the next cycle.