i wanted to share how i've made some progress ARCing in the past month
previously, i ARCed on mostly vertical or slightly overhanging terrain on mostly jugs. i wanted to be able to ARC on steep terrain to improve technique, and ability to rest on good holds in such terrain. the gym i climb at always has a juggy traverse set in the cave area, the angle ranges from ~horizontal to ~10 degrees overhung. the first two sessions i could barely stay on the wall for 3 minutes, and had to rest an equal amount of time to depump enough to pull back on. in each of these first two sessions, i did about 5 sets for a total climbing time of about 15 minutes. i was far too pumped in these sessions for it to be really considered ARCing but, in each session, i aimed to increase my total climbing time by a few minutes, and decrease the number of sets (so that each set is longer). i had my eighth session this morning and managed to do a 20 minute set, 5 minute rest, and a 10 minute set! i'm planning on working up to 2 20 minutes sets, then i will try to spend less time shaking out and use worse foot holds. hopefully this will lead to some steep sends!
TL,DR: even if terrain is too difficult for you to ARC on at the moment, it is possible to build up to it by doing what you can and increasing volume each session
I had a similar experience learning to ARC on my 35 degree wall (and actually, when I first started, learning to ARC on my 15 degree wall). Be careful you don't develop tendonitis or tendonosis though. I wrecked myself at the start of this season by seeing how long I could ARC on my 35 wall. I think I did a full 30 minutes, which I was psyched about, until the next day. My arms hurt so bad I had to take several days off.
i was far too pumped in these sessions for it to be really considered ARCing but, in each session, i aimed to increase my total climbing time by a few minutes, and decrease the number of sets (so that each set is longer).
That's pretty awesome gains! Did you change your rest time at all when you increased your climbing time?
Interesting. What made you change your climb:rest ratio like that? Do you think it's more effective for training endurance?
I wanted to work towards two 20 min sets with a 5 min break between (as recommended by brendann). I didn't have plan for work:rest because my main objective was to increase the climbing volume, so i just went off of how i felt but kept track of how long I was resting. I started to depump faster so I decreased the rests. I can't really be sure its more effective because I was changing a couple variables but I think it's a good variable to be flexible with in this scenario because you want to maintain a certain level of pump. as what i was capable of was changing so quickly, i think this training by feel was more effective than being rigid about work or rest times or ratios, but i dont plan on bringing the training by feel strategy to hangboarding
i was 2 when PRC came out so i'll take that excuse but i should catch up on the classics
Hey I was 31 when PRC came out! And I bought it immediately and tried to follow it... RCTM is infinitely better, but now I'm too old to make huge gains. Ah well.
Congrats on your ARC improvement! I'm doing 15 min ARC sessions with 10 min break... 5 min rest would be substantially harder I think. Have you tried it yet?
Strangely the limiting factor for my ARCing now is my feet. I'm at 2-10 degrees overhanging, which means I stand on my feet quite a bit and my big toes are sore by the end of the session. Do you ever experience this?