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Post by stanleybaker on Aug 28, 2017 13:02:50 GMT -7
I'm not sure exactly how to progress for my campusing so I figured I'd ask for opinions.
From the beginning, matching ladders and single ladders have been pretty easy. I had an entire cycle of trying 1-3-5 and not being able to get to 5, then this new session I came back and nailed it on my first pass and have been able to consistently do it.
I can do the ladders and the max's on L and M, but cannot do any of them on small. I can't even try because the first latch always pops off, so one move and off, which is annoying.
Anyway, I'm doing the basic campus training. I was wondering if I should add more at the end of what I'm currently doing (ie, B1-L2-R3-L4-R5-L6-B6 to B1-L2-R3-L4-R5-L6-R7-L8-B8) or try moving to the intermediate campus training where they skip the matching and do the max ladders with the + bumps?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 29, 2017 11:28:49 GMT -7
I don't thinking adding more moves to basic ladders is going to help you with anything but power endurance.
Generally I think campusing should be done on the smallest rungs a person can handle, since most real-world rock climbing is done on holds that are "small" relative to campus-board-rung sizes. I would focus an excess energy on sticking moves on the small rungs. It sounds like a technique/practice problem to me. Are you latching the rung initially, and then it pops off when you attempt the second move? Or, are you unable to latch the first move?
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Post by stanleybaker on Aug 29, 2017 12:05:54 GMT -7
Thanks for the reply Mark. I practice at two different gyms (one by my work and one by my home) and they both have campus boards. My routine has fallen onto limit bouldering at my work one (since it has a systems board) and campusing at my home one (since the rotation has put me on the weekend when I'm campusing).
Now I remember my first training cycle, at the gym near my work I did do the basic ladders on the small rungs. I have tried again at the home gym and I couldn't do the small rungs at all. This gym is also very old, and I'm guessing the campus rungs are old too. I wonder if they've been used for so long they're glassier than the ones at the work gym. I don't know. I'll have to try at the work gym to see if I can do the small rungs again.
As for the problem, I can start and my hand hits the rung, but there is no latching, it just pops off and I scrape my knuckle as I try to make the second move and pull down. I tried two different times to make sure it wasn't just a fluke but the exact same thing happened the second time, too.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 29, 2017 13:01:03 GMT -7
Old, heavily used wood will definitely get glassy. What I would do is get some sand paper (not sure on grit) and sand the latching surface of the rungs when nobody is looking. Might be hard to do without a ladder, but at this point you only need to sand the second rung, haha. I think if you sand the right amount, with the right type of sandpaper, you can restore some of the texture.
But also, you need to try more than twice. It's not unreasonable to try 10 times leading with each hand (20x total) in a single session. Then another 20x the next session, and so on.
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Post by stanleybaker on Aug 29, 2017 13:20:31 GMT -7
But also, you need to try more than twice. It's not unreasonable to try 10 times leading with each hand (20x total) in a single session. Then another 20x the next session, and so on. I'll give it some more tries, it just seems useless if I'm literally doing 1/2 of a move 20 times. Thanks for the feedback.
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Post by Chris W on Aug 30, 2017 8:41:01 GMT -7
If it makes you feel any better, I started by doing half of a move 20 times. It did eventually click. Once I could do 1,3,5 on the medium rungs I switched to the small. They felt pretty impossible to me at first, they only feel improbable now, so I'm making progress.
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Post by stanleybaker on Aug 30, 2017 9:11:08 GMT -7
If it makes you feel any better, I started by doing half of a move 20 times. It did eventually click. Once I could do 1,3,5 on the medium rungs I switched to the small. They felt pretty impossible to me at first, they only feel improbable now, so I'm making progress. Just to clarify I'm not even talking about 1-3-5 on the small. I'm talking about the basic ladders. But if that's the next step, it's what I have to look forward to!
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Post by tetrault on Aug 30, 2017 12:16:50 GMT -7
FWIW:
The gym near my house installed a new campus board a few years ago with a set of each size metolius rungs. About a year later (I doubt the board was used all that much, except for the giant PVC pipe "rungs" wrapped in sandpaper) they installed a 2nd set of small metolius rungs. The original set was nearly impossible for me to latch at all, but I could perform ladders and max ladders on the newer set without coming off due to unexpected slips. The profile of the slightly older small rungs appeared to be less positive than the newer ones. According to staff members, the older rungs were not modified.
Maybe Mark was there secretly testing out on the old small rungs what grit sand paper to use on his own board...
I would take a picture if I still had a gym pass.
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Post by Chris W on Aug 30, 2017 17:37:49 GMT -7
So my progression was successful matching ladders from 1 to 4, then basic ladders from 1 to 5, then max ladders 1, 3, 4 to 1, 3, 4.5 to 1, 3, 5, all on the large rungs. Once I could successfully do all of this, then I moved to the medium rungs using the same formula, then once I could do the whole deal on the medium rungs, then I moved to the small rungs. I'm still working on making my matching and basic ladders smooth on the small rungs, and have tried 1, 3, 4 on the small rungs, but I still have a way to go.
I have my own campus board, and I'm the only one who has ever used it. I don't have any friends...
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Post by Lundy on Aug 30, 2017 18:16:15 GMT -7
I have my own campus board, and I'm the only one who has ever used it. I don't have any friends... +1
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Post by aikibujin on Aug 31, 2017 13:34:31 GMT -7
I have my own campus board, and I'm the only one who has ever used it. I don't have any friends... If I be your friend, will you come to Colorado and build a campus board at my house? Haha, just kidding... maybe. Anyway, back to the OP. It sounds like you can't latch the small rungs. Can you simply deadhang from the small for about... 10 seconds? If not, you probably just need to get stronger. If you can hang easily from the small rung, try offset deadhang from the small rung (like L1/R2 and R1/L2), since that load one hand more than the other. From the offset deadhang, drop your higher hand to match on the lower rung (L1/R2 - R1). If you can latch and match on the lower rung, then go back up to the higher rung and try to latch that (L1/R2 - R1 - R2). Or, you can try standing on the ground with one hand on the first rung, and hop up to latch a higher rung with your other hand. Eventually you'll be able to latch the small rung if you keep practicing with different methods, and then you're on your way to 1-5-8!
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Post by Chris W on Aug 31, 2017 15:43:32 GMT -7
1) What is OP?
2) I will come to Colorado and build a campus board if I can crash at your house and you can belay for me. I have belay glasses. And, I kind of need a plane ticket. And my wife and all the kids will want to come. I'll cook pizza on the grill.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 1, 2017 13:44:18 GMT -7
Original Post.
Kids are no problem, we can always use more belayers, and there's lots of free camping in my backyard. Not sure about the plane ticket, I'll let Boer take care of that one, haha.
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Post by jonfrisby on Sept 5, 2017 8:23:45 GMT -7
FWIW: The gym near my house installed a new campus board a few years ago with a set of each size metolius rungs. About a year later (I doubt the board was used all that much, except for the giant PVC pipe "rungs" wrapped in sandpaper) they installed a 2nd set of small metolius rungs. The original set was nearly impossible for me to latch at all, but I could perform ladders and max ladders on the newer set without coming off due to unexpected slips. The profile of the slightly older small rungs appeared to be less positive than the newer ones. According to staff members, the older rungs were not modified. Maybe Mark was there secretly testing out on the old small rungs what grit sand paper to use on his own board... I would take a picture if I still had a gym pass. My gym has some of both. They did 1-9 of the slightly shittier ones and followed up with half spacing, realizing later that the half spaced rungs are better than the full numbered rungs. For example it is easier for me to go 1-3.5-5.5 than 1.3-5 because the second move comes off a better hold. I have deadhung off them and notice about a 10 pound max hang difference
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Post by stanleybaker on Sept 7, 2017 7:57:16 GMT -7
So I finally got to the new gym last night and I had some questions answered.
The new gym is where I did my first campusing and I could do large and medium rungs. I remember trying out the small rungs during my last one or two sessions and didn't have a problem with them. I could do 1-3-4, but the entire first rotation I could never get 1-3-5, not even on the large rungs. My hand was always an inch below the rung and I think the best I got was touching about halfway up.
My second rotation I was campusing at the old gym. 1-3-5 was a breeze. I was thinking "hot damn this is showing results." Last rotation I tried 1-3-5 5x a session and could never get the 5, now I got it on my first try. Piece of cake. So then I moved to trying the small rungs and couldn't latch one. Would slip every single time.
So I went back to the new gym last night. My assumptions on the rungs were correct. The old gym's rungs must be very old and very polished. I did all of the basic and matching ladders on the small rungs with no problems at all.
But then I got to 1-3-5. Could only get to an inch below 5. What the hell? Is this some sick joke?
Luckily, in a stoke of genius at the old gym I took my notebook and marked the spacing of the rungs at the old gym. I held that up to the new gym spacing and... The new gym spacing has about 1.5 more inches between each rung.
I have no clue which one is standard and which is not (or if one is moon and one is metolius, I'm not sure of the spacing difference). But now I have the annoying choice of campusing at a gym where I can't use the small rungs or campusing at a gym where I can't do 1-3-5. I'm probably going to campus at the gym with the small rungs and put on my try hard for the 1-3-5. Probably do 1-3-4-bump to 5? Not sure yet.
Edit: After looking up spacing, both of these gyms have Moon spacing, but one is off since they don't match. The new gym when I asked last night said their's had "a little more space than normal" so I'm guessing those assholes are the ones that for whatever reason decided to add an inch or two of space between each rung.
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