Post by aikibujin on Apr 19, 2017 16:51:42 GMT -7
I do think there is something that can be gained from a video like this. Even though both climbers used a fairly similar sequence, there are still subtle differences as you've noted in your own analysis. While I think it's hard to simply look at the differences and say which climber is using better technique, one of the climbers can look at the video and try using the other climber's sequence next time. By experimenting and experiencing the difference, the climber can determine which is the better technique. Watching the video again, I also noticed the two climbers have very different stances for placing and clipping gear. That can be another lesson to learn, which climber is using the better stance?
That's a good question and I don't know the answer. I've been listening to a lot of training podcast lately, and I hear about climbers sending video of them climbing to their coach/trainer and get good feedback on technique. If we assume that's true, then I guess some of the climbing coaches/trainers are able to perform some pretty in-depth analysis. Maybe this ability comes from experience, from coaching and watching many different climbers over the years, they can build this knowledge base of good technique. Maybe it's an inherent talent of a particular coach/trainer. I'll say it's not something that everyone knows how to do. I spent ten years in martial arts (Aikido if you haven't guessed), 4 of those years I taught as an assistant instructor to my sensei. To teach a technique, you need to be able to break down the movement into components: angle of your arm, direction of the force, timing of a movement, palm up vs. palm down, and then you need to be able to verbalize this information. Not everyone is good at this. Some people are really good at doing something, but if you ask them how they did it, they have no idea. I may not be the best martial artist, but I was a pretty good teacher because I'm good at analyzing a technique, figuring out what exactly make it work, and explaining it to others. And by analyzing and teaching others, it was also helping myself improve.
So I wanted to take this approach to climbing. But when I tried to analyze climbing technique, the many different ways to use handholds and footholds, use body position, sequence a route, and different characteristics of the individual climbers, all these factors create an infinite number of possibilities for a particular route. And unlike martial arts, there isn't just one right way to do a move in climbing. I was overwhelmed. I can't look at someone climb and tell you if they're using good technique or not. I can't look at two different sequences and tell if one is better than the other, without actually trying the sequence myself. It's possible that I just haven't watched and analyzed enough people climb to develop the knowledge, that's why I've been spending a lot of time hiding in my basement, eating ice cream and watching climbing videos. But it's also possible I just don't have that inherent understanding of what good technique looks like.