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Post by scojo on Feb 3, 2017 15:06:21 GMT -7
I guess my climbing style is to climb dynamically, except for really balancy moves. I'm curious; what projects on the front range do you find lock-off intensive?
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Post by ehowell on Feb 3, 2017 15:16:00 GMT -7
Maybe not intensive, but I still find myself doing them. My wingspan is 5'6" and I have the flexibility of somebody in a geriatric clinic!
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Post by ehowell on Feb 3, 2017 15:16:28 GMT -7
I generally do climb dynamically though.
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Post by aikibujin on Feb 3, 2017 22:21:26 GMT -7
I've really been focused more lately on offset pull-ups, because I either am lacking the neuromuscular connection or am just too weak to properly push with my lower hand on big moves on the campus board and on the rock. Since you mentioned pushing with your lower hand, I think you're training what I think of as "deep lock-offs", which is more than just simply pull up as high as you can, stabilizing yourself with one hand and reaching with the other. In this kind of lock-off, you're rotating the shoulder of your reaching hand above your lock-off hand, so your bottom hand is not just pulling down anymore, but pushing away from your shoulder. Here are a few photos of the type of lock-off I'm talking about.    When I do a deep lock-off like this, I feel it more in my shoulders than in my biceps or lats. It's almost like doing a gaston at an angle. So personally I don't think either the one-arm PU or the two-arm PU can train you for this type of deep lock-off, because you simply cannot engage your shoulders like this in any pullup motion. Your best bet is probably the system board, "bump again" on the campus board may also train this, although not statically. |
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Post by ehowell on Feb 4, 2017 7:42:40 GMT -7
You're a master of the well illustrated analysis! You're exactly right; this is the movement I'm trying to improve. If the hold is decent, then going dynamic is the way to go, but for tiny edges it requires a slower contraction, which is something I'm struggling with. The way I do offset PU's, I transition the lower hand from pulling to a dip. Would that achieve the same result?
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Post by aikibujin on Feb 4, 2017 17:37:30 GMT -7
I'm also not very tall (5'7 with 0 ape), so I can understand the need to squeeze every inch of reach we can from a hold. Although I guess I have one extra inch on you!  I feel like I'm pretty good with a regular lock-off, but when I start to go into a deep lock-off and need to push with my lower hand, I'm definitely not as strong. I think it is because my shoulder muscles are relatively weak. I also do the offset PU sometimes. In my opinion, the pullup and the dip portions of the exercise do not engage the shoulders, at least not in the way that's useful for the lock-off. However, it's hard to say if the transition from the pullup to the dip has any benefit. The transition is where I feel the weakest, so I think focusing on it is improving the flexibility and strength in my shoulders. But whether it will transfer to lock-offs remains to be seen. |
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I feel like I'm pretty good with a regular lock-off, but when I start to go into a deep lock-off and need to push with my lower hand, I'm definitely not as strong. I think it is because my shoulder muscles are relatively weak. I also do the offset PU sometimes. In my opinion, the pullup and the dip portions of the exercise do not engage the shoulders, at least not in the way that's useful for the lock-off. However, it's hard to say if the transition from the pullup to the dip has any benefit. The transition is where I feel the weakest, so I think focusing on it is improving the flexibility and strength in my shoulders. But whether it will transfer to lock-offs remains to be seen.