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Post by avaserfi on Feb 6, 2017 18:16:23 GMT -7
I'm going to give the conjugate periodization a go. Reading over this thread, I have one question (right now):
Once you are in your peak phase, after you've completed utilization how do you maintain fitness when not projecting? How long do you typically plan on staying in this peak fitness/maintenance phase prior to starting over again.
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Post by jcm on Feb 6, 2017 21:59:23 GMT -7
Basically the same as Rockprodigy for performance phase length. 4-6 weeks of peak performance, but the power and PE portions can contain good outdoor days too (albeit not neccesarily at peak fitness), so that adds another ~6 weeks of climbing to the season.
During the performance phase, I'll generally climb outside on the weekend and do a "Session C" (a tiny bit of hangboarding, then bouldering) on Wednesday to maintain power. Or sometimes I'll do two super-short power days on Thues/Thurs. I don't typically find a need to do supplemental PE training during the performance phase; the outdoor climbing seems to provide plenty of that. Holding on to strength/power is the bigger issue (for me; you may be different).
The above is for climbing-season cycles, where you can climb locally on weekends. It looks a lot different for a winter cycle, where I'm training for a short trip. There, its all gym climbing followed by 2 weeks of only outdoor climbing.
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Post by jcm on Feb 6, 2017 22:05:52 GMT -7
Looking back, I kind of overcomplicated my description earlier in the thread. The super-short version is as follows:
For any given phase, focus on that attribute twice per week. Do something else once per week. Pair the capacities (ARC, strength) during those phases, and the "powers" (power, PE) during their phases. So ARC twice a week and hangbaord once a week for your base phase. Then hangbaord twice a week and ARC once per week during strength pahse. Then work power twice a week and do PE (LBCs, etc) once a week. Then PE twice a week and power once a week. Then performance phase, with a bit of maintenance for whatever is lacking or fading.
There are lots of other little details, but this is the core of the schedule.
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Post by jcm on Feb 7, 2017 10:19:44 GMT -7
The other reminder to add, for any schedule, is to always watch the volume and training load, and reduce it if there are signs of overuse. I made this mistake this season, and ended up with a swollen knuckle; I think too much / too stressful crimping on the treadwall during PE was the root cause.
I don't think that the "conjugate" scheduling was necessarily the source of the problem, though; if anything I think the conjugate scheduling can reduce these risks by smoothing out the shock of phase transitions. On the other hand, the factor that you are adding more different attributes into the program creates a risk of too much volume. You need to use a lot of will power to keep the volume appropriate.
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Post by ehowell on Jan 23, 2018 8:29:19 GMT -7
I'm way late to the party here, but I'm experimenting for the first time with some of the conjugate principles mentioned above, and just came across this gem. First off, thanks to JCM for the detailed scheduling.
One question (if anyone's still paying attention here): Would it not be more specific to address An Cap with boulder circuits as Barrows suggests, while still maintaining strength with any other hangboard protocol?
A follow-up question to that: Are there any updated thoughts out there on combining sessions, say by beginning fresh with a short hangboard session (30 minutes or less, 2-3 grips), and then moving to An Cap bouldering circuits? There are different schools of thought out there -- Horst and some others consider combined sessions to be "junk training", while the Lattice guys seem to highly encourage it.
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Post by scojo on Jan 23, 2018 8:56:17 GMT -7
A follow-up question to that: Are there any updated thoughts out there on combining sessions, say by beginning fresh with a short hangboard session (30 minutes or less, 2-3 grips), and then moving to An Cap bouldering circuits? There are different schools of thought out there -- Horst and some others consider combined sessions to be "junk training", while the Lattice guys seem to highly encourage it. I think it's fine to have an endurance focussed session after a strength focusses (or technique or power focussed) session but not the other way around.
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Post by smoothoperator on May 5, 2019 5:54:57 GMT -7
Just bumping this because I see a lot of use in the terminology: capacity training vs utilization training, as well as the coupling of capacities and utilizations. Currently trying to structure my training somewhat similarly, although i started off with ancap work on the fingerboard due to knee surgery. I am just now adding in ARCing. excited for this season!
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