Post by johnybinwv on Dec 9, 2016 12:12:22 GMT -7
I also have developed shoulder issues from hangboarding (and elbow issues).
First, hangboarding is hard and pushes my body to its limit. I generally feel quite tired the next day and need a full recovery day (no exercise, a couple of recovery dog walks, and try to limit physical activity to no more than basic chores). I think taking sufficient rest is important in preventing injuries.
Second, I will take an extra day off or two if I feel problems developing. I find that sometimes I can go bouldering after two rest days (e.g, HB, day off, day off, bouldering, day off, day off, HB) and then jump back into the cycle.
Third, by being conservative in the weight increases you prevent 'miserable' failures on a set. When I solidly complete a grip position with a weight, I usually increase the resistance by 2.5lbs not 5. Taking good notes as to 'how solid' the final reps were also helps in knowing when to increase resistance. If I barely, just barely, completed a set I might stay with that resistance for one more session to solidify that level of resistance and feel like I have dominated it.
Finally, I mildly separated my shoulder last year during a bike crash. The only good thing that came out of that is a rehab/pre-hab protocol that I developed along with my physical therapist. This routine really helps me develop strong, healthy shoulders. By creating stronger shoulders I feel more confident on the rock and am more capable of 'going for it' on dynamic or shouldery movements. I'll try to add my shoulder PT/Prehab routine as a separate post and link back to here.
First, hangboarding is hard and pushes my body to its limit. I generally feel quite tired the next day and need a full recovery day (no exercise, a couple of recovery dog walks, and try to limit physical activity to no more than basic chores). I think taking sufficient rest is important in preventing injuries.
Second, I will take an extra day off or two if I feel problems developing. I find that sometimes I can go bouldering after two rest days (e.g, HB, day off, day off, bouldering, day off, day off, HB) and then jump back into the cycle.
Third, by being conservative in the weight increases you prevent 'miserable' failures on a set. When I solidly complete a grip position with a weight, I usually increase the resistance by 2.5lbs not 5. Taking good notes as to 'how solid' the final reps were also helps in knowing when to increase resistance. If I barely, just barely, completed a set I might stay with that resistance for one more session to solidify that level of resistance and feel like I have dominated it.
Finally, I mildly separated my shoulder last year during a bike crash. The only good thing that came out of that is a rehab/pre-hab protocol that I developed along with my physical therapist. This routine really helps me develop strong, healthy shoulders. By creating stronger shoulders I feel more confident on the rock and am more capable of 'going for it' on dynamic or shouldery movements. I'll try to add my shoulder PT/Prehab routine as a separate post and link back to here.
