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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 4, 2016 8:14:06 GMT -7
What else can cause a diminished overall climbing performance by getting weaker other than not doing intense enough training or to little rest in the power phase? Perhaps many things: illness, terrible nutrition, poor focus, doing the wrong activities.
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Post by Otis. on Mar 4, 2016 9:13:51 GMT -7
I would tend to agree with the majority that a bit more rest might be needed. However, I personally like to do 3 weeks of harder work and then on the fourth week I lighten the load and make sure to have at least 3 days in a row off, preferably 4. This seems to really help me beat the feeling of fatigue and I always feel strong after the 3-4 day break. I'm 38 and have been climbing for nearly 20 years.
The other thing that I have noticed with myself is that I respond better to block periodization than I do with linear periodization. For some reason, I struggle with being able to quickly pull the non prioritized training factors back into my overall fitness if I don't work on them at least once every other week and preferably at least once a week. My plan is a compilation of the teaching from the Anderson's, Bechtel, Maisch and a few others. It usually involves 2-3 days of focused training and then 1-2 days of maintenance training on the non prioritized factor.
Good luck.
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Post by erick on Mar 4, 2016 11:09:12 GMT -7
I will also add that sleep quality plays a huge role. Last week I did a LB workout then was helping some friends move to CA so I took 3 rest days instead of the 1 usually take. You would think that would be enough but since I had no really good nights of rest during that time I felt that my Campus workout when I got back sucked.
So make sure you are getting as much quality sleep as possible. My wife and I wake up around 6 each morning and its not uncommon for us to be in bed around 8 the night before especially if we have been working/training hard. But we have no kids that makes getting good sleep actually possible.
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Post by wellhung on Mar 4, 2016 11:35:53 GMT -7
Thanks all. A "1 day on/2 off" schedule will be an easy experiment to try, and I should know within a few weeks if it pans out.
Funny, it was not the answer I was expecting to get... and I am a little bummed that I will be bouldering/limit bouldering even less frequently. I was kind of anticipating the answer could be that my power phase might be too high intensity, too little volume.
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fabio
New Member
Posts: 1
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Post by fabio on Nov 10, 2016 8:42:00 GMT -7
Hello mates,
I am having similar problem but other way around. Basically I do my training cicle like this: - 10 days rest - 1 week to 10 days ARC (1x30 min to 2 x 45 min) - 20 min ARC + 9 HB workouts session, best performance being at 7th session - 3-4 weeks power: 15 min ARC + 50 min WBL + LB + 30 min campus - 3-4 weeks PE: 10 min ARC + 35 min WBL + 4 to 8 LBC (~30 moves) - 3-4 weeks performing: 10 min ARC + 20 min WBL + 4 to 8 (~45 moves) or just going to crag to perform
The problems I have are: 1) I see my performance peak at end of power phase 2) When I get into performance phase, my power is getting very poor 3) My resistance does not get high enough during performance phase to enable me to do a 90 move route (5.13b) that I used to do easily 5 years ago when I had time to go to the crag very often
PS.: I am 37 yrs old, climb for 13 years and have done v8 and 5.13d
I feel that while doing the RCTM training, I train very little resistance compared to before and, even though I know I am getting stronger and I got rid of injuries, which is absolutelly GREAT, my performance at very pumpy routes have been not satisfactory.
I have been thinking that maybe a non linear training after the strength phase would improve my resistance (by beggining to train LBC earlier) and would keep my power for longer time (by keeping training campus after the power phase).
Any thoughts about that?
Best regards,
Fabio
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Post by climber511 on Nov 10, 2016 9:25:50 GMT -7
Nutrition can be a factor - are you on any kind of weight loss program? Sleep can be another problem. Depending on the individual strength, power, or endurance can all need various different amounts of recovery time which can differ from phase to phase.
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Post by daustin on Nov 10, 2016 13:43:19 GMT -7
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 11, 2016 19:26:58 GMT -7
I think you're just waiting too long to start performing. You should be trying to get on rock by about mid-way through your Power Phase, and if possible, you should be climbing on rock all through your PE Phase. My season would be ending about the time you are starting your Performance Phase.
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