Interested in Mark's Opinion on this Training Program

[slimshaky]

Jan 8, 2015 9:59:07 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

I don't think that was negative at all. I didn't realize you did two 13a's last year, great job man!

When working with Jonathan we ran into this "boredom barrier", where he was always like, "you know, I don't have a job, so I can train a lot more than this" and we were constantly explaining that more isn't better. A lot of these young pros just have so much free time that they (and/or their trainers) feel compelled to fill it. Or perhaps they see their "competitors" putting in all these hours and think they're being lazy if they aren't training 8 hours every day.

first off, thanks mark.  i know you were wanting me to do the example, but i felt i needed to dabble my toes in the water a bit first  if i send the example you will be the first to know as i will send my retirement/resignation letter  .

second, i think it is really easy to get into compulsive training mode.  you get to a point where you feel downright guilty if you let even a single day pass without training or climbing.  i totally went through this.  if something happened and i couldn't train that night i would literally throw a wobbler and feel like the world is ending.

looking back at it, i probably only really trained 6 to 12, maybe 15 hours a week.  i can't remotely imagine 20 hours.  i was talking to my wife last night about that period of time.  she said she felt like she only saw me on the weekends and she hated it.  i would get home from the gym at 10:00, sometimes 10:30.  she would already be in bed.  she would be gone when i woke up.  i would be gone when she got home.....  i dont want to live like that.  (and i also hate not-sending!).

[heelhook]

Jan 8, 2015 13:17:25 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

Campusing is easier to judge, because its pretty-well quantified. Usually near the end of a campus session I will be working a difficult Max Ladder that I can't quite do. On the first attempt or so I'll be short of the rung on the second move, then I'll hit the bottom or middle of the rung, then the lip, then the top surface, maybe latch it for a split second. If I never stick it, and I keep trying, eventually what I just describe will happen in reverse--I'll get further and further away from sticking the move. After I regress on two consecutive sets I know I'm done.

That's very interesting MarkAnderson; I think you should include this in the 2nd edition of the book as its really good to know what's the criteria to continue or stop the session. Thanks for sharing that!

Pablo

[Charlie S]

Thanks for asking this question, and Mark, for your answer. I too had been curious about this since it seemed to get some hype.

When you watch the videos, it's A LOT of cardio. And a lot of volume, and a lot that didn't seem very climbing specific. I think for an athlete like Emily Harrington who is also into ski mountaineering and ice climbing, this is more applicable.

Speaking of training, I came across this blog entry recently:
blog.momentumclimbing.com/?p=1857
First 5.14 at 41! There's hope!

[sr]

Hey Charlie 

i know Robert really well and I don't  want to burst your bubble, but he didn't follow a structured program to climb 14a . We put together a training program last year and he got his first 14b at 45.  Training does work and I think the Anderson book is awesome, but he does not follow this program.  We needed to customize portions to work around a nagging elbow injury (so no campusing) and to address some specific weaknesses in a more focused way.  Since we spend a lot of time on steep climbs we do a considerable amount of resistance training.  Steve Becthel has a blog with some good posts on lifting in addition to a book he published.  
Happy to share details if interested.  
Shanna (sr)

[Charlie S]

Thanks for the clarification, and no bubble was burst. The point of sharing that article was simply that via training, it's possible to crush it as you progress in years. Since I have a long way to go until I'm in my 40s, this means there's still a chance of me someday sending 13s and 14s.

Edit: Just made the connection that you are the Shanna in the article.  Nice work on the 13c's!