Strength-Endurance

[jetjackson]

Yeah, the best sessions I've had on the hangboard were incredibly intense. I found that doing it with a mate also helped. Then you can scream in each others faces drill sergeant style. Plus the shared pain forges stronger belaytionships.

[mclay]

Feb 6, 2017 8:20:39 GMT -7 jetjackson said:

Yeah, the best sessions I've had on the hangboard were incredibly intense. I found that doing it with a mate also helped. Then you can scream in each others faces drill sergeant style. Plus the shared pain forges stronger belaytionships.

Having someone to train with would be a huge advantage. I'm trying to convince some climbing partners to get into RCTM, but haven't won them over yet. 

[jetjackson]

I've converted at least 2 people. I think they have seen my improvements over the past 18 months and they have plateaued in their progress and looking for something to propel them forward. They're in the hangboard phase at the moment.

[mclay]

I think I convinced one of my main partners to buy the book! Psyche is high.

[mclay]

Coming back to the idea of strength-endurance...In this cycle I've cut number of grips down to 4 and tried to make it very specific to the goal routes I have for rest of the year. Also doing two sets on the jug because I've recently worked the crux of routes pulling on small edges only to slide off of huge jugs after the crux, not from being pumped but just losing contact strength/power (not sure what to call it or how to describe exactly!) I feel like I'm getting way more out of the workouts, but recover still seems to take a long time in between workouts.

I decided to reverse the order of grips on my latest workout. Just to see if my strength-endurance is actually a factor. Small sample set, but I certainly felt the same way on the 3rd grip in sequence.

HB data -
HB#5 – MMR, WSRI,– 15 mins ARC
1. Warm-up Jug - +14kg – 7 reps – solid –
+16kg – 6 reps – good
2. Large edge (semi-closed) – 6kg off – set 1 – 7 reps – done – pretty good
Set 2 – 4 kg off – 6 reps – done, pretty solid
3. Medium open-hand edge – 14kg off – 6 reps – fail on last rep at 4 sec
Set 2 – 14kg off – same weight 5 reps – fail on last rep (6 sec)
4. Sloper – 18kg off – Set 1 – 5 reps – fail
Set 2 – 18 kgs off same weight– 5 reps done again! Felt better than first set though despite less positive part of hold used and keeping arms up – better breathing and focus?

HB#6 – WSRI, MMR,– 10 mins ARC
Reversing order of grips – started with 4 ending with 1
1. (4) Warm-up Jug - +16kg – 7 reps – done, but first time jug has been any sort of struggle
+18kg – 6 reps – done, little bit easier than first set – one workout seems to show reversing grip order helps strength-endurance (?)
2. (3) LVDR (semi-closed) – 4kg off – set 1 – 7 reps – done – hard – right shoulder a little bit destabilized last rep
Set 2 – 2 kg off – 5 reps – fail – LH sliding off just at end of 6 rep
3. (2) SVDR open-hand edge – 14kg off – 7 reps – pretty solid!
Set 2 – 12kg off – 6 reps – good! Focus hard on last rep but still 20% away from failure
4. (1) Sloper – 18kg off – Set 1 – 7 reps – pretty easy
Set 2 – 16 kgs off –done! Still pretty easy – premise of switching order proving true early on.

Failure for the workout was achieved at the 3rd grip in each workout even though grip order was reversed. I had struggled to make any progress on SVDR or Sloper until HB6 (once I reversed order).