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Post by Chris W on May 3, 2016 20:33:56 GMT -7
My recent spring season, rather than leaving me pleasantly fatigued and ready for a rest phase, has sparked a new hunger for the rock. My local rock is diabase, about 10 degrees overhung and involves hard crimping and edges and ledges. My last route of the season, which I did not send, was Psycho Wrangler down at the NRG. This was steep sandstone with BIG holds.
For the fall, I'm considering working on projects at home and planning a trip to the NRG for fun. While at home, I'll project some local 12's (probably) and should have the strength and power already needed to send them. When I go to the New, however, I'd like to tackle some steep routes. I'm not very good at them, and steep overhung climbing is a demon I'd like to slay.
So my question is: how should I train for both types of rock in the same season?
1) I plan on adding an extra week of ARC training to the start of the phase, putting some large holds on my 35 wall and adding a section to the wall that will allow me to traverse between the 35 and the 15 walls
2) I plan on keeping my strength and power phases the same, focusing on hard crimping on the hangboard and small rungs while campusing
3) I was thinking about creating a long PE circuit (4 min long?) on the 35 wall with large edges for holds and jugs at the start and finish to shake out on. I'm hoping this will allow me to build the endurance needed to crush an overhung 12a on good holds.
4) I'll keep the emphasis on PE during the PE phase, but plan on one power maintenance session per week through the PE phase
5) My local climbing (crimpy and powerful) will be at the start of the season, and the trip to the New (goal of steep rock) will be toward the end of the season.
Any thoughts?
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ericg
New Member
Posts: 42
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Post by ericg on May 4, 2016 5:15:14 GMT -7
Make sure you do your core work and 1 arm invert rows to help on the steep rock.
Could you do all the moves on Pyscho Wrangler last season? What was your progress and why were you falling? I would most likely take the extra week way from ARC training and use it for power or PE unless your reason for falling was not being able to recover on 5.10ish terrain, in which case your plan sounds perfect.
Once you send your local route, I would spend all the majority/all my time training PE and keeping your power up on the 35 wall, or maybe even a 45 if you have that.
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Post by Lundy on May 4, 2016 8:11:12 GMT -7
Once you send your local route, I would spend all the majority/all my time training PE and keeping your power up on the 35 wall, or maybe even a 45 if you have that. I agree with this. Psycho Wrangler is pretty pure PE, especially up high, so your setup is good. Work your local crimp fests during the power phase, then jump into a lot of PE for prep to get the NRG. Also, I don't think you need a 4 minute PE program. If I remember, PW has some decent rests on it, so I'd setup your PE to be a bit more than the max number of moves between good shakes. Or maybe something like 15 moves into a good shake into 15 more moves, but I don't think that's a 4 minute set.
And have fun -- that's a great climb! With the redpoint crux being to clip the chains.
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Post by Chris W on May 4, 2016 9:45:06 GMT -7
I can easily do all the moves on psycho wrangler. I fell because I didn't have the endurance to pull through them all. Psycho Wrangler is just an example of a route; the goal will be to climb hard steep routes in the 5.12 range at the NRG.
The big jug block on top of Psycho Wrangler was quite literally dripping wet when I was on it last week!
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Post by Henny on May 18, 2016 10:59:56 GMT -7
Well, I would say Psycho Wrangler is actually a little atypical of the New since the "classic" New style is more like your home crag, thin crimping on vertical or slightly overhanging rock. It has been a while since I climbed Psycho Wrangler but I seem to remember a hardish move or two down low with a chance to recover, then the redpoint crux coming pulling over the roof onto the face and upper dihedral. I don't know what your body type is but if you struggle with steep climbing my guess is you should try and lose weight. If you can pull the moves easily, then this is an endurance problem like you said, so PE should be important to you going through the roof and pulling onto the headwall.
The rock on the Meadow River and at Summersville tends to be steeper than at the New River Gorge Proper so maybe you should check out those crags too? Other steep routes of similar difficulty and style you might be interested in.... Gray Goose at the Brilliant Pebble, Tobacco Road and Narcissus at Summersville Lake, Starry and Skull in Hole at 3rd Buttress on the Meadow. Skull Fuck and Yowsah at the Hole in Kaymoor.
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Post by Chris W on May 18, 2016 16:33:37 GMT -7
Thanks for the route suggestions Henny.
I don't believe weight is a problem for me.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 10, 2016 3:22:09 GMT -7
So, I sent my main project for the season yesterday afternoon ; Welcome to The Bird, a local 12b/c with a hard thin boulder problem for the first three bolts. The rest of the climb was edges and crimps to get to the finishing jugs. I blew off 3-4 times (over 2 weeks) on the last move before the jugs before sending.
The goals for the rest of the season include several more local 5.12 routes (if I have the time) and some severely overhanging routes at the NRG this coming week. (October 16th through 23rd). I just started my performance phase yesterday and have 3-4 weeks total of climbing left this fall season. I don't expect any more climbs this season to require more power than the opening of Welcome to The Bird.
Having said all that, I'm trying to figure out how to prioritize my training for the remainder of the season. My current LBC is on the 35 degree wall and is two minutes long. I have two thoughts.
1) Prioritize my PE training and minimize power maintenance
2) Continue my power maintenance training (similar to the plan discussed in Mark's post on the Siberian Express in March 2015) at least once per week until the fall season ends.
Any thoughts?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 10, 2016 9:31:52 GMT -7
Great job Chris! Congrats!
...And #2. Nobody's ever said "damn, I wish I didn't have so much power". There's plenty of time/capacity to do both (Power & PE) in the same workout.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 10, 2016 17:58:02 GMT -7
Thanks guys, and thanks for the advice Mark! Power it is! I'll let you guys know how the NRG trip goes. Hoping everyone stays healthy (no colds, fevers, or diarrhea please).
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Post by Chris W on Oct 29, 2016 3:19:34 GMT -7
So ultimately I completed my season goals, though not quite as expected. Originally, I was trying to plan my training to develop power and endurance at the same time. My power route, Welcome to The Bird 12(b/c?), was at home, and it took me a little longer to send than expected. Because of this, I focused on maintaining power with campusing and hard limit bouldering, going into my PE phase and beginning of my performance phase. I knew I needed to have a lot of power to get through the crux. I de-emphasized hard PE, tacking it on to the end of my power training similar to Mark's post on the Siberian Express. I changed my PE circuit to 2 minutes per set and used my 35 wall for the circuit instead of the 15.
I worked Welcome as the first route of the season, following the idea in the book about working powerful routes early and endurance routes later. Turns out I had plenty of power, but my endurance seemed a bit lacking. The powerful moves on Welcome were for the first 3 bolts and I felt strong on those, but I ran out of gas on relatively easier moves at the top and blew off going for the finishing jugs 3-4 times before I sent the route.
When I went to the NRG, I got to a new high point on Psycho Wrangler (part of my goal to send an overhanging endurance route this season), but I felt like this was because the bottom moves felt easier and I definitely felt stronger, not because I felt like my endurance was good. I did send Starry, 12a, but again I felt like this was because the crux moves felt easy and I felt very strong, not because I felt my endurance was in top form. Perhaps if I had lengthened my PE sets or focused more on those, I would have felt my endurance was in better form.
BTW, I’m not writing this to “spray”, but am hoping the information can benefit someone in a similar situation.
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