Hi all, I have one week left for my power phase and since I have no trips planned right after (or many opportunities to perform), I was going to jump right into my second training cycle, starting with strength, so that way I align the end of my next cycle with a two week bouldering trip. I read some posts that a few of you did this "abbreviated" cycle and skipped the performance phase so i figured I would give it a try. By reading the bouldering chapter of the book, it seems to suggest that if my focus is strictly (short, 5- 10 moves) bouldering then there is no point in power endurance phase. I was wondering what do other boulderers out there do? Since this is my first training cycle, there is a good chance that I will benefit in some unexpected ways from power endurance regarding my general climbing abilities, but I also don't want this phase to "hurt" my focus on power and strength. As a side note, I wend sport climbing yesterday, since my boyfriend prefers the ropes so we agreed on one day bouldering and one day sport. I had no expectations nor was I attempting to perform. I got on a pretty overhung/roof .11c and I found that all the moves were very easy for me, however I got so super pumped that I had to hang a couple of times to rest... I guess that was to be expected, but it made me wonder if there would be any significant benefit for me to do some power endurance and up my general "try hard" skills... thanks!
Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 11, 2016 13:47:15 GMT -7
Some people think PE training is fun, but otherwise I don't think a full blown PE Phase would help you achieve your goals. That said, PE is a spectrum, and a 10-move boulder problem will certainly entail some "high-end" power endurance. Considering what you have in mind for the next few months, I would not recommend any PE training now, but in the future you may find it helpful to train problems in the 10-20 move range if you find you are struggling on top-outs or at the end of longer problems.
One of the toughest styles for me is routes with boulder problem cruxes that end in a hard dyno. So like, a 5.10 slab to a big roof that requires 8-10 hard moves, culminating in a hard throw. It's not easy to deliver 95+% of your power after a sequence like that, but high-intensity/low-rep PE training can help with that sort of thing.
I don't particularly struggle at topouts, since once I manage make it up there i am willing to throw my face on the top of the boulder if I have to in order to send the problem I don't remember ever being seriously pumped on one of my boulder projects. But in general, I would like to train some form of Powerful PE. Do you have any concrete suggestions on how to do that? I am guessing that LBC would be too much on the endurance side? Should I just find some longer problems and climb those? or maybe do two problems in a circuit instead of 4?
I do both route climbing and bouldering, but where I live nearly all the route climbing is short and cruxy: bouldering on a rope basically. So for my projects I usually dont need to do sequences longer than 10-15 hardmoves, usually less. I find that training powerful circuits of about 25 moves helps a lot for that. So based on my (rather limited) experience: train for a little bit more than you need. Additionally, the fitness you gain from PE work will give you a few extra quality attempts per session:)
I almost exclusively boulder, and I definitely find power endurance training helpful. My current training program is based on the RCTM program. It involves rest, ARCing, HB, then climbing. I don't do PE as a specific phase in my cycle, I just work it into my climbing portion every two or three sessions or when I feel like I need it. What I've been trying to determine is what duty cycle is most efficient for my approach. I'm working on figuring this out experimenting on my own, but was wondering if anyone could offer some insight?