So I was doing some route intervals at the only gym I have found that had good terrain that simulated my goal route, vert with crimpy holds. The bouldering gym I usually go to does not have suitable LBC terrain that simulates my goal route. So at the other gym I got on the hardest route they had on suitable terrain. I did 6 laps running a 3 to 1 work/rest cycle. During the first two laps I got pumped but after that I just felt fatigued. The 6th lap was not bad. I did feel like it was good skill practice to maintain composure while tired but I don't think I really was working in the PE zone.
After 15 minutes of rest I got on some harder routes on a 15 degree overhang that still had relatively small holds. While climbing these I was pumping out quickly. So I must have gotten myself really tired doing the route intervals but during my LBCs in the past I was always fitting a mega pump. These LBCs were always on overhanging terrain though.
I am wondering if it would be better to have gotten on terrain that does not simulate my goal route but does get me very pumped in a manageable way.
I think wall angle largely determines % of body weight on hand holds. This is modified by size and quality of footholds. So you might want to find a compromise between the two options you describe, option 1 with worse feet ( forbid the best part of every foothold. Or option 2 with better feet.
I was defiantly limiting footholds, the route was set with a few key stems and did not allow myself to use them. Also this route I did had the smallest holds on the wall so I could not pick worse feet. So maybe kicking the wall angle back might be the best move.
Erick, I asked a similar question somewhere (can't remember where) and the answer I got was along the lines of 'use your 15 degree wall'. I believe the question related to why Mark did LBC's and Limit Boulder problems on his 30 degree wall while his angles in Colorado were less than that on real rock.
Personally, my goal route this past fall was mostly less than 15 degrees (5 or 10?) except for the crux, and I felt like the slightly harder angle of my 15 degree wall prepped me well, produced the desired pump, and was not so far off as to seem foreign and inapplicable to the route. Plus, the holds were a little less painful.
Sorry for the jumbled, post, off to train before work.
Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 14, 2016 19:07:15 GMT -7
Ya, somewhat unexpectedly I've found that intensity seems to be more relevant than hold size/wall angle. For example, when prepping for Smith (or similar) I've tried using my 8 degree wall to do PE, and found I just can't get pumped enough for effective PE training. (perhaps because plastic footholds never get small enough, and accurately sized handholds would trash your skin).
That said, another thing you can do is just eliminate holds on the "too easy" climbs until they're hard enough. But you may run into the same limitations I've described above regardless.