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Post by Jace on Feb 11, 2016 11:25:45 GMT -7
So I fully understand the benefits of being able to change weight while hangboarding. In fact, I have thought about what must be every way to try to affect that with no luck. I have neither the money or space to setup my own hangboard with pulleys and things.I'm using the hangboard at the school climbing gym but its mounted in cinder blocks so theres no way I can just screw some eyehooks in, i've tried some pretty ghetto rigs with little success.
Is there a way of changing the hangboard workout with this in mind? I'm training mostly for long trad routes on a metolius board.
Thanks!
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Post by joev9 on Feb 11, 2016 12:02:36 GMT -7
Can you put your feet on some small holds to take weight off? Adding weight should be easy, as you can hang it from your harness or wear a weight vest...
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Post by jetjackson on Feb 11, 2016 12:59:43 GMT -7
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Post by erick on Feb 11, 2016 13:33:40 GMT -7
I think that talking to the administration about the upgrades would be worth while. If YOU pay for the anchors and eye bolts needed for the pulley system I would imagine they would have little reason to say no. Also if you plan on letting anyone use the pulleys you may want them to be an item that is "checked out" somewhere as opposed to just leaving them up all the time.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 11, 2016 14:02:53 GMT -7
It's also possible to drill/screw into plastic, so you could probably install an eye bolt right in the hangboard itself. You might want to do that when nobody is watching  I've never done this, but I've considered using a skyhook or something on a hold in the middle of the board to support a pulley. That would be ghetto for sure. Lastly, you could stand on a scale, and then try really hard to keep the number on the scale steady as you hang (so, if you want to take-off 30 lbs, pull just hard enough that the scale reads "30", and try to maintain that through each rep of the set). I've never done that, so I don't know how well it would work. |
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Post by chrisbecker on Feb 11, 2016 14:19:05 GMT -7
I've never done this, but I've considered using a skyhook or something on a hold in the middle of the board to support a pulley. That would be ghetto for sure. Lastly, you could stand on a scale, and then try really hard to keep the number on the scale steady as you hang (so, if you want to take-off 30 lbs, pull just hard enough that the scale reads "30", and try to maintain that through each rep of the set). I've never done that, so I don't know how well it would work. Felxible cam in a deep pocket could work. Regarding the scale: shouldnt it read bodyweight - 30 lbs? I have a (German) book for training for climbing where the author, Guido Köstermeyer (known for the first repeat of WoGü's Wallstreet and some other hard ascents), recommends using the scale approach. I've done it before and it works ok, but I prefer the objectivity of added weight. |
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Post by joev9 on Feb 11, 2016 14:37:59 GMT -7
I've never done this, but I've considered using a skyhook or something on a hold in the middle of the board to support a pulley. That would be ghetto for sure. Lastly, you could stand on a scale, and then try really hard to keep the number on the scale steady as you hang (so, if you want to take-off 30 lbs, pull just hard enough that the scale reads "30", and try to maintain that through each rep of the set). I've never done that, so I don't know how well it would work. Felxible cam in a deep pocket could work. Regarding the scale: shouldnt it read bodyweight - 30 lbs? I have a (German) book for training for climbing where the author, Guido Köstermeyer (known for the first repeat of WoGü's Wallstreet and some other hard ascents), recommends using the scale approach. I've done it before and it works ok, but I prefer the objectivity of added weight. If the scale reads 30 then that means you are supporting all but 30 lbs of your bodyweight on your fingers, thus that would be a -30 lb hang... |
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Post by chrisbecker on Feb 11, 2016 14:44:44 GMT -7
Felxible cam in a deep pocket could work. Regarding the scale: shouldnt it read bodyweight - 30 lbs? I have a (German) book for training for climbing where the author, Guido Köstermeyer (known for the first repeat of WoGü's Wallstreet and some other hard ascents), recommends using the scale approach. I've done it before and it works ok, but I prefer the objectivity of added weight. If the scale reads 30 then that means you are supporting all but 30 lbs of your bodyweight on your fingers, thus that would be a -30 lb hang... Duh, shouldn't write in between SE sets... |
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Post by jetjackson on Feb 11, 2016 21:26:23 GMT -7
I've never done this, but I've considered using a skyhook or something on a hold in the middle of the board to support a pulley. That would be ghetto for sure. Lastly, you could stand on a scale, and then try really hard to keep the number on the scale steady as you hang (so, if you want to take-off 30 lbs, pull just hard enough that the scale reads "30", and try to maintain that through each rep of the set). I've never done that, so I don't know how well it would work. So I was always under the impression that a skyhook was a 'fools errand', like a trick played on new apprentices - "go out to the shop and get me half a dozen skyhooks' messybeast.com/dragonqueen/fools-errands.htm |
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Post by jessebruni on Feb 17, 2016 12:58:47 GMT -7
So I was always under the impression that a skyhook was a 'fools errand', like a trick played on new apprentices - "go out to the shop and get me half a dozen skyhooks' Ah...you mean like headlight fluid. knowyourmeme.com/memes/headlight-fluid |
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Post by jetjackson on Feb 17, 2016 17:42:21 GMT -7
Exactly!
I'm in the chemical industry, people are either chemists, or non-technical, so one of the good pranks is to request new non-tech execs to call a specific vendor to source a new product called dihydrogen monoxide.
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jace
New Member
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Post by jace on Feb 21, 2016 12:58:24 GMT -7
Got it figured out! After some trial and error I was able to come up with a pretty ghetto solution. Luckily I work at my school's wall so i am able to have 24/7 access to it--just have to plan my workout for when the wall is closed and I get the gym to myself! Pretty sweet! My solution was to take our setting ladder and use it to hang my weights (in this case, jugs of water borrowed from the neighboring gear room). As long as no one uses the water jugs (actually pretty good chance of that), I should have a repeatable weight--if not quantifiable. I have a "Heavy" and a "Light" jug. Not sure how much they weigh. Good idea on the skyhook (for the uninitiated--a piece of aid climbing equipment) but can't take the risk of damaging the board.  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 21, 2016 16:03:50 GMT -7
Sweet! You should be able to quantify the weight of those jugs pretty easily. One option is a scale. If that doesn't work, figure out how much water they hold, then google "weight of water per ounce" or something. I recommend getting some more jugs though, as a gallon of water weighs about 8 lbs. You mind find it helpful to add/subtract much more than that.
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jace
New Member
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Post by jace on Feb 21, 2016 16:27:28 GMT -7
Sweet! You should be able to quantify the weight of those jugs pretty easily. One option is a scale. If that doesn't work, figure out how much water they hold, then google "weight of water per ounce" or something. I recommend getting some more jugs though, as a gallon of water weighs about 8 lbs. You mind find it helpful to add/subtract much more than that. Yeah, they are 6.5 gallon jugs. One is like 3/4 full the other is 1/4 full. I'm still on the hunt for a scale...I think I have a lead on one. Then I'll be able to change water weight between workouts as needed. |
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Post by jetjackson on Feb 21, 2016 20:40:54 GMT -7
Next get a gallon bottle of milk, drink the milk, then fill it with water, that weighs ~8.3 pounds, then dissolve 1.7 pounds of salt into the water and you will have a 10 pound weight to use to add weight between your sets.
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