Delaying the Peak

[jcm]

TL;DR: Due to changes in plans, I need to delay the timing of my peak by about 3 weeks. I am at HB7 right now. How to change the schedule to do this?

Long version: Spring plans have shifted a bit due to work/women/climbing partners. A 3 week March trip to Siurana has changed to two trips to Smith, one circa March 19-27, and another during the first or second week of April. Actually really stoked to stay local in the PNW (and save money…). Due to similar-ish style (vert; small crimps and pockets), the Siurana HB grip selection and general training plan carries over very well. The timing is a bit different though, so I need to tweak the plan a bit to delay the peak.

I did HB 6 on Sunday, and do HB7 tomorrow. Original plan had been ARC from mid-Dec to early Jan, 8 HB workouts in Jan, then 3 weeks of power in Feb, 2 weeks PE in late Feb/early March, then Spain for 3 weeks. I need to stretch this out a bit. I’m concerned about finger strength when trying to peak in Smith in early April, 2 months after the end of the HB phase. Peaking to send things during the second trip (early April) is a higher priority; the first (March) trip is more about touring classics, learning the style, and sussing/working projects to try to send during the second trip.

So, how do I stretch this out to maximize finger strength two months from now? I see a few options:

1. Stretch out the strength and power phases as long as possible. HBing is going really well this season. I’m making steady progress, have already PR’d everything, and think I can push improvement up through HB10.

2. Do a “bridge cycle” approach. Quit the HB now (after 6-7 sessions), do 2 weeks of power, then restart and do another 6 HB sessions, then power, then PE. This would have me finishing the second power phase shortly before the 1st trip, making the 1st trip part of the PE phases. I did something like this last season, and it worked well.

3. Let the training cycle run its course (having stretched out the strength and power phases a bit), peak during the first trip, and then use NLP to try to re-up power in between trips and stretch the peak into April.

4. Extend the strength and power phases by combining them into some sort of tandem strength/power plan, where HB, LB, and campus workouts alternate…do this for all of February and the beginning of March.

5. Other ideas?

I’m leaning toward #2 or #4.

[jcm]

Other relevant OP data points:

I typically do best at steep enduro climbing (i.e. Rifle/Maple), and suck at crimping and power (i.e. Smith); this season is all about working that weakness. Hence really emphasizing the HB and campus board, and giving PE less attention. I’ve been climbing for a long time, but this is really only my third season of legit training on the HB.

On the steep stuff I RP ~13c when peaking, but that is 1-2 letters lower on vert. This was before starting real training. Would like to bring the vert redpoint up to/beyond that level, but not necessarily this season. OS 12c a few times per season, on both steep and vert.

My goals this season are more about trying to push my OS and short term redpoint (2GO/3GO) grades, as opposed to digging in to a big long term RP campaign. I have NEVER been to Smith before, despite having lived in Seattle for a year and a half (embarrassing). Especially on the first trip, I'd like to do as much 5.12 onsighting as possible.  For redpoint routes, I would especially like to try Darkness at Noon and Aggro Monkey.

As noted above, I live in Seattle. Prospects for local outdoor climbing before the Smith trip are poor (wet). El Nino has not panned out as hoped.

[erick]

I personally would lean toward option 4 but I personally would not start campusing until I was truly in power phase. So I would do something like HB, rest, rest, LB, rest, rest, HB... but that is probably because I am a whimp and I feel like I would injury myself if I was campusing and hang board training at the same time. If you are pushing yourself on smith vert then you will find that often a power move or a nasty crimp is what holds you back not so much the endurance so however you can tailor your workouts for that.

As an aside, I am personally going to be in smith with the wife-n-chief the second weekend in April and plan to work darkness as well so plan on me stealing all your beta. + I am in a not starting a new job until late spring so if you need a march smith partner hit me up!

[jcm]

"I personally would lean toward option 4..."

After some further thought and consideration of scheduling today, I think you're right and this might be the way to go.  Extend strength phase to HB10, then do a long strength/power phase.  This would probably be better described as a power phase with 1 day per week of short, intense hangboarding for strength maintenence.  Maybe campus Tues, LB Thurs, HB Sat. Do this for 4-5 weeks. Thoughts on this approach?


"If you are pushing yourself on smith vert then you will find that often a power move or a nasty crimp is what holds you back not so much the endurance so however you can tailor your workouts for that."

That's what I hear, and probably doubly true to me, since I suck at nasty crimps.



"I am in a not starting a new job until late spring so if you need a march smith partner hit me up!"

No specific partners/plans lined up yet for either trip, so if you want to join up for a Smith trip, I'd be interested.

[dylanfllr]

There are some low 12s at vantage that should be opening up soon, and a few 13s scattered on the N side. They would be cold but if you caught a nice break, good for touching some real rock.

[kb]

Jan 26, 2016 17:59:35 GMT -7 jcm said:

"I personally would lean toward option 4..."

After some further thought and consideration of scheduling today, I think you're right and this might be the way to go.  Extend strength phase to HB10, then do a long strength/power phase.  This would probably be better described as a power phase with 1 day per week of short, intense hangboarding for strength maintenence.  Maybe campus Tues, LB Thurs, HB Sat. Do this for 4-5 weeks. Thoughts on this approach?


"If you are pushing yourself on smith vert then you will find that often a power move or a nasty crimp is what holds you back not so much the endurance so however you can tailor your workouts for that."

That's what I hear, and probably doubly true to me, since I suck at nasty crimps.



"I am in a not starting a new job until late spring so if you need a march smith partner hit me up!"

No specific partners/plans lined up yet for either trip, so if you want to join up for a Smith trip, I'd be interested.

Hi,

I'm exactly in the same situation this year(except i'm a beginner).

Is this solution, to alternate HB/LB, gave you good results ?