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Post by erick on Mar 11, 2016 12:40:27 GMT -7
Now that you have this beautiful setup what would you do differently next time? Do you think you would be just as happy without the moon hold, or were they worth the cost to get em here in the states?
I am moving soon and will have access to space to build a home wall. No were near as much space as you but enough for me to obsess over other peoples designs.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 11, 2016 20:25:49 GMT -7
Ted, that wall make your Misty pad look TINY! (or glass half full, that Misty pad makes your wall look HUGE!)
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Post by Chris W on Mar 12, 2016 6:01:13 GMT -7
Nice job Ted. Are you going to get bigger pads? When we moved into our current house and I built my wall in my barn, my wife "made" me get big pads. I talked to the guys at Asana and they made two 8' x 4' x 8" pads for me. They're fantastic and have held up EXTREMELY well; I would recommend them.
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 12, 2016 8:35:56 GMT -7
If it is just for the home gym and you're not planning to go outdoors you could just go and buy PU foam on the cheap - I used to work in a foam factory when I was at University, we would sell offcuts to the public really cheap.
Alternatively you could go for a used foam mattress on craigslist and just pull the dirty cover off and use the foam.
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Post by tedwelser on Mar 12, 2016 9:52:11 GMT -7
Now that you have this beautiful setup what would you do differently next time? Do you think you would be just as happy without the moon hold, or were they worth the cost to get em here in the states? I am moving soon and will have access to space to build a home wall. No were near as much space as you but enough for me to obsess over other peoples designs. Hey Erick- We still have a ways to go in terms of buying holds and flooring, so the setup is not all the way finished. But in terms of design, I am pretty happy with the 20 degree and 40 degree walls at Beta Fish because they complement what I have at the Dojo (short and steep but wide). Between the two walls the only thing we are missing (that I want) is a wide wall with a transition from slight overhang to slight slab. That transition is so key to topping out problems that it would be fun to be able to practice it indoors above a safe landing. I really like the aretes but we don't yet have enough holds to really enjoy them. Our friend Grady is psyched to get some big slopers for the aretes which will be really good for making compression moves and realistic sandstone boulder problems. Hey aikibujin- All home training resources are infinitely better than nothing! Build what you can where you can. I am really glad that we used the Moon grid layout for the t-nuts, and I am even happier that we also added the additional grid. Moon has you making a 6 by 11 grid on each 4X8 sheet, which is not very dense (by home woody standards) so the extra 5 by 12 grid we added in the centers gives us plenty of options. I would say that we still have room for 200 more holds on our moon/kilter hybrid wall if we want to add them. Using this double grid allows us to set up any moon problems that we want but also integrate other holds. The huge plus of the moonboard is the 1000's of problems, and the style of problems. Moon problems are characterized by limited feet and big powerful moves between challenging holds. In terms of style they are super intense limit problems- like a cross between campus training and bouldering. I would never make a moonboard and just leave it with the standard holds in a home wall because the hold selection is too limited and extreme. However I think the moon holds are super worthwhile because they are actually quite inexpensive compared to modern holds (like Kilter). For example we ordered all 3 moon sets (yellow, black, white) for about $760 including shipping and import duties (150 holds including the 10 footholds) for the kickboard. (moon had a 15% discount if you ordered all 3) That is ~$5 per hold. In contrast the Kilter holds were about 700 for 55 holds, shipping and bolts. The moon sets (black and white) are very rough because they were shaped from a lower density foam. The shapes are primitive, a bit uncomfortable, but often interesting and reminiscent of the uneven shapes you find on hard limestone routes (like at American Fork or Logan Canyon) because they are often angular in ways that don't make them easy to use. They require extra attention and effort to latch safely and to use. I think this is a good type of realism to integrate into your indoor training, but it is also a bit dangerous. You cannot just throw for these holds with impunity-- you have to be careful or you will tweak something (as I learned a month ago). There are no jugs and no deep slopers in the moon holds. The moon wall is not good for warming up (unless you like warming up on semi- tweaky holds on V4+ problems). The Kilter sets we got largely fill these missing niches as well as bringing in some medium open hand edges and some semi open hand sloping edges. Many of the moon grips seem to reward crimping, and we wanted some hardish edges for open hand / semi closed grips. Tonight I get to try the moon / kilter hybrid out for the first time with my family. The Kilter Overjugs set are super positive and comfortable, so I think we will have actual V0/V1 problems to play around with and warm up and down climb. Chris and Jet- In terms of padding we plan to get 8 inch thick gymnastic pads. Fifty minutes drive away in Columbus there is a gymnastic pad manufacturer. We can avoid shipping costs and get 5 by 10 foot vinyl topped 8 inch pads for 650 each. We hope to get three, combined with a base of carpet and foam would be about ideal. The gymnastic pads are durable and heavy, which means they stay put (bouldering pads tend to slide around more). [Mark- the solitary pad is just there to make the wall look bigger, lol] Currently we are using a nest of about 6 bouldering pads that we shuffle around depending on what we are climbing. akathletics.com/collections/gymnastics-mats/products/5-x-10-x-8-landing-matThose pads are costly but getting them is step in our plan to establish a bouldering coop in Athens. We will use the Dojo and Beta Fish as provisional locations to get organization off the ground and begin accumulating members and capital. Initially our only costs will be insurance, holds, and pads (as Bryant and I donate some scheduled access to our home walls) so hopefully we can build up some of the capital needed to move to a larger more dedicated space. Our small college town could not support a for profit gym but we could certainly sustain a user supported coop focused on training and learning for more dedicated climbers.
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Post by climber511 on Mar 20, 2016 11:57:36 GMT -7
Ted - I live in Crooksville Ohio - about an hour from Athens (I graduated OU). I would be interested in visiting sometime to see what all you guys are up too and learn from climbers better than myself. My wife and I run the Climbing Wall at the Crooksville Recreation Center www.facebook.com/Crooksville-Recreation-Center-116699951687401/ - a non profit center designed to keep our local kids off the streets and out of trouble. ($2.00 adults and $1.00 for students. But it's only open a couple hours a week (multi purpose facility). I have access at other times though. I'd love to see what you're doing and possibly get some ideas I might incorporate down the road for the kids here. I'd also like to invite you and your friends to visit here sometime - we are open Thursday evenings starting at 6PM. It's not a hardcore wall but has some interest features etc - you can see some pictures on the link I provided.
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Post by tedwelser on Mar 20, 2016 12:45:12 GMT -7
Ted - I live in Crooksville Ohio - about an hour from Athens (I graduated OU). I would be interested in visiting sometime to see what all you guys are up too and learn from climbers better than myself. My wife and I run the Climbing Wall at the Crooksville Recreation Center www.facebook.com/Crooksville-Recreation-Center-116699951687401/ - a non profit center designed to keep our local kids off the streets and out of trouble. ($2.00 adults and $1.00 for students. But it's only open a couple hours a week (multi purpose facility). I have access at other times though. I'd love to see what you're doing and possibly get some ideas I might incorporate down the road for the kids here. I'd also like to invite you and your friends to visit here sometime - we are open Thursday evenings starting at 6PM. It's not a hardcore wall but has some interest features etc - you can see some pictures on the link I provided. Hey- We could connect via FB, I just liked the CRC page, so you should be able to find me there. It would be great to show you around Athens, both in terms of home walls and outdoor bouldering. Just let me know. cheers!
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Post by climber511 on Mar 20, 2016 14:00:21 GMT -7
Ted I just sent you a PM - I am a computer idiot - couldn't figure out how to find you via the "like" on the Rec Center page My apologies. I can do it on my personal FB page but maybe I don't have permission or something to see everything on the Rec Center page - I didn't make it.
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Post by jlarson on Jun 7, 2016 8:06:24 GMT -7
Hey Ted this new wall looks awesome! I'm also very inspired by the way you've managed to organize a community of climbers around your two home walls. Very cool stuff!
Now that you've had a couple months on the boards what are your impressions? Your board planted a seed in my head to do a similar moon hybrid board on the side of my garage. How are things working out? Do the kilter holds interfere with the moon holds at all?
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Post by tedwelser on Jun 11, 2016 5:11:17 GMT -7
Hey Ted this new wall looks awesome! I'm also very inspired by the way you've managed to organize a community of climbers around your two home walls. Very cool stuff! Now that you've had a couple months on the boards what are your impressions? Your board planted a seed in my head to do a similar moon hybrid board on the side of my garage. How are things working out? Do the kilter holds interfere with the moon holds at all? The kilter holds have been great. They do not interfere with the moon problems and they add a great deal to the functionality. I did a couple 45 move sequences and mainly used the moon holds. Since the time of my earlier post we have reset the moon holds and kilter to the new 2016 setup. I think moon and kilter are planning some doer of official version of the hybrid board.
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Post by jlarson on Dec 2, 2016 22:04:49 GMT -7
Well almost finished with my hybrid moonboard. Sooooo stoked to get this thing done and in business. Thank you all (and especially Ted) for the inspiration! Edit: I'll get a picture of the frame up here in a bit...figuring out how to post pictures from my phone is taking more than five minutes to figure out so I'm done until I get to my laptop
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Post by jlarson on Dec 13, 2016 13:52:41 GMT -7
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Post by jlarson on Dec 13, 2016 13:53:32 GMT -7
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Post by jlarson on Dec 13, 2016 14:07:07 GMT -7
Some additional thoughts:
-I've never done any sort of construction projects so this was new territory. Building the frame onto an existing structure was the hardest part for me. I used 2x6 on 16 inch centers for the frame which I anchored into 2x6s cemented into the ground. The roof joist provides the main support for the board.
-Measuring everything was a pain, it was nice to have some friends around to bounce ideas off each other and double check our work.
-I sent out some random emails to the local climbing gyms and was able to buy ~30 jugs to supplement the moon holds for about $1-2 per hold.
-Moon problems are hard! I climb a lot of slab and vertical face climbing so the board is hitting a major weakness. So far it's been humbling...I love it!
-The board is outdoors though it's perpetually shaded and I live in a very dry environment. I chose to marine spar all the wood to prevent delamination. I opted for zinc plated tnuts and bolts because of the cost, hopefully things don't corrode too soon. I'll post an update about this if someone is reading this years later and is curious. Remind me!
One last big thank you to all who post on this site! This wouldn't have occurred to me had I not seen your home setups. Very motivating to be in contact with such a motivated group of climbers!
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Post by tedwelser on Dec 14, 2016 14:50:44 GMT -7
Some additional thoughts: -I've never done any sort of construction projects so this was new territory. Building the frame onto an existing structure was the hardest part for me. I used 2x6 on 16 inch centers for the frame which I anchored into 2x6s cemented into the ground. The roof joist provides the main support for the board. -Measuring everything was a pain, it was nice to have some friends around to bounce ideas off each other and double check our work. -I sent out some random emails to the local climbing gyms and was able to buy ~30 jugs to supplement the moon holds for about $1-2 per hold. -Moon problems are hard! I climb a lot of slab and vertical face climbing so the board is hitting a major weakness. So far it's been humbling...I love it! -The board is outdoors though it's perpetually shaded and I live in a very dry environment. I chose to marine spar all the wood to prevent delamination. I opted for zinc plated tnuts and bolts because of the cost, hopefully things don't corrode too soon. I'll post an update about this if someone is reading this years later and is curious. Remind me! One last big thank you to all who post on this site! This wouldn't have occurred to me had I not seen your home setups. Very motivating to be in contact with such a motivated group of climbers! I cannot see any of your images. you need to host them first at imgur or on blogspot and then hotlink them to here.
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