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Post by tedwelser on Jan 14, 2016 22:57:32 GMT -7
Here is the post, but the key thing is this photo. Bryant's garage has 12 foot ceilings and the current wall only occupies 1/4 of the available space. The right hand wall is a 40 degrees moon wall^k; which we will populate with both moon holds and a wide array of Kilter holds, both on the main grid and an additional 60 t-nuts per panel on the off grid centers. That wall obviously has a headwall and two overhanging blunt aretes. To the left is a 20 degree wall, and left of that is vert terrain. Vert, 20, 40 degrees and HEIGHT are what the dojo lacks, and now we will have those dimensions too. Our plan is to run this new wall "Beta Fish" as a CO-OP and eventually sustain enough membership / participation to build on and expand. Anyways, I am super psyched, and this new wall plus my home dojo combine to give me better training resources than I would have in many large cities. Hooray for small college towns!  |
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Post by wellhung on Jan 15, 2016 7:47:06 GMT -7
Lucky you. You should consider drilling holes for the LED lights on the Moonboard, it is a pretty slick system.
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 15, 2016 9:56:20 GMT -7
Awesome! Be sure to post progress updates!
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Post by tedwelser on Jan 22, 2016 23:56:57 GMT -7
Awesome! Be sure to post progress updates! Some more progress.  |
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 23, 2016 9:03:56 GMT -7
Nice! I spent about 3 hours last night setting new limit boulder problems on my mates 45. Good time.
Looking good. So disciplined with the bolt placement, we just randomly drilled holes everywhere.
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erk
Junior Member
Posts: 83 
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Post by erk on Jan 26, 2016 3:48:44 GMT -7
I need to make more friends with garages... This is awesome!
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Post by tedwelser on Jan 26, 2016 12:24:48 GMT -7
Nice! I spent about 3 hours last night setting new limit boulder problems on my mates 45. Good time. Looking good. So disciplined with the bolt placement, we just randomly drilled holes everywhere. I am excited about trying and creating new problems too. It has been cold and there is not yet heat in the garage so I have not actually climbed on the new wall yet. Hoping to try it tonight with temps in the mid to high 30's. We drilled the t-nuts according to the grid spacing for moon walls, and then we added another grid to the center of each square on that grid. (moon grid is 6 rows by 11 columns and about 8 by 8 inches). the additional 60 tnuts we add are in 5 rows by 12 columns. So each sheet has 126 t nuts, which is a decent starting density. We plan to add sets of 50 holds from Kilter to update and expand the possibilities on the "Hybrid Kilter/Moon" board. Eventually we hope to make a smart phone app that will make it easy to upload and share problems to the updated hybrid board, and to work with Kilter to identify holds that work well in the system. UPDATE: I failed to upload this post last night, so I can report on my first Moonboard workout, which provided a great hard bouldering and limit bouldering experience. Wow! My upper back is sore! The problems tend to have powerful muscular movements where you have to contend with sometimes awkward foothold locations. I really enjoyed it and found it to be a great contrast to the options I have in the dojo. |
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Post by arrase on Jan 28, 2016 3:03:38 GMT -7
Looks very good, looking forward to more photos. I am planning on building a homegym in the back of my barn within the next couple of years myself. So looking forward to the inspiration  So far I have a tiltable moonboard that I really love. No problem finding interesting limit boulders on the moonboard for sure. I used to dream of building a ropewall in the silos in the back of my barn, would be about 15m (~50ft?) from the bottom up to the roof. But I've settled on building a floor over the silos and building a boulderinggym for myself instead, I think that will give me more use. I'll still have about 5m(~16ft?) height on the tallest, which is more than enough I guess. Here's a picture of the barn and my moonboard (probably set to about 25-30° here)  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 1, 2016 11:32:11 GMT -7
That barn is awesome. You have to sell some of that useless stuff in the background and use the space for more climbing terrain!
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Post by tedwelser on Feb 3, 2016 23:37:34 GMT -7
I wrote a blog update with some construction insights on the wall I am working on. There are far too many photos to try to hotlink them all, so here is the post.But here is one of the photos.  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 4, 2016 10:23:44 GMT -7
Looks awesome Ted! Can't wait to check it out next time I'm in Athens, haha. Based on my experience I would say your framing is super burly. You can sleep well at night knowing that after the apocalypse is over, your woody will still be standing  |
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Post by tedwelser on Feb 4, 2016 15:10:33 GMT -7
Looks awesome Ted! Can't wait to check it out next time I'm in Athens, haha. Based on my experience I would say your framing is super burly. You can sleep well at night knowing that after the apocalypse is over, your woody will still be standing Thanks Mark- Yes, I prefer to build burly enough to allow my walls to double as tornado shelters! That can come in handy here in Ohio. We do have Jackie O's, which is the best brewery in Ohio, and one of the best 100 in world, according to Rate Beer. But besides that, the only reason to come here is if you were driving from Columbus Ohio to the New. The left arete and the moonboard headwall are now complete.  View from ceiling height. That arete will be great for some compression problems.  |
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Post by daustin on Feb 4, 2016 20:37:55 GMT -7
Looks rad!!!
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Post by tedwelser on Mar 10, 2016 21:04:42 GMT -7
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 10, 2016 21:30:09 GMT -7
Wow, compare to all these home gyms, the wobbly freestanding hangboard frame I built using scrap 2x4s the previous homeowner left under the deck looks very... inadequate.
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