Post by kiki on Dec 16, 2015 11:28:14 GMT -7
I've been climbing for about 3 years and only dabbled in training a little bit last winter when I broke my foot. I was planning on starting a training program this winter but seem to have sustained some type of wrist/elbow injury and want to maximize my approach to rehabbing it so it doesn't become worse or a chronic issue.
I am mostly a sport climber but I usually boulder at the gym. On my second day bouldering outside and last day climbing outside this fall, I spent A LOT of time on two problems that really stressed my right arm - one in a crimp position and the other throwing off a wide pinch to a sharp crimp. I had not been ignoring any pain there over the course of the fall season and I didn't notice anything particularly painful after that day until 3 days later when I had severe pain in a crimp position that radiated from my wrist/distal part of my ulna toward my elbow. I took several days off, lots of NSAIDs, and did ice baths of my wrist and forearm 10 min on/10 min off, 3x each, twice a day. I can identify with symptoms of lateral epicondylitis in that I felt pain initially with crimps (now it's mostly just weakness with them) and definitely with underclings (and possibly pinches). Perhaps I have some confusion regarding elbow injuries because the pain is not in my elbow, it more radiates down the lateral aspect of my forearm and manifests in my wrist. I have identified a tendon (?) that possibly attaches to my lateral epicondyle that is definitely sore/irritated so I've been stretching and massaging it after workouts and before icing.
Aside from the first day I noticed it, it has not been at all unbearable and I can climb just short of my maximum effort without pain. It does ache on and off throughout the day and does not seem to be improving. I am also in graduate school and therefore have to type furiously at least 3 days a week (when I have class) as well as in the evenings when I'm studying and do notice some increased discomfort with that.
I have stopped the NSAID use because the pain isn't debilitating and I read that if it is lateral epicondylitis, it is maybe not actually an inflammation issues (contrary to what the name suggests) and therefore the NSAIDs aren't doing anything productive anti-inflammation-wise. Other than that, I have continued with the stretching, massage, and ice baths after workouts (as well as ice baths in the morning and night on rest days), and longer rest between workouts (2-3 days). My workouts now consist of a much longer warm-up that involves dynamic stretching (something I previously did not do), only last about 1-1.5h, and I try to avoid trying anything close to my maximum. I also started doing eccentric wrist flexion and supination after workouts and on days when I don't go to the gym. Originally I was planning to start a HB cycle on January 11th so I could get through a training cycle for a climbing trip in early March. Now my main goal is to develop a training plan that rehabs this issue so it does not become debilitating and/or chronic. Any thoughts?
Thank you!!
I am mostly a sport climber but I usually boulder at the gym. On my second day bouldering outside and last day climbing outside this fall, I spent A LOT of time on two problems that really stressed my right arm - one in a crimp position and the other throwing off a wide pinch to a sharp crimp. I had not been ignoring any pain there over the course of the fall season and I didn't notice anything particularly painful after that day until 3 days later when I had severe pain in a crimp position that radiated from my wrist/distal part of my ulna toward my elbow. I took several days off, lots of NSAIDs, and did ice baths of my wrist and forearm 10 min on/10 min off, 3x each, twice a day. I can identify with symptoms of lateral epicondylitis in that I felt pain initially with crimps (now it's mostly just weakness with them) and definitely with underclings (and possibly pinches). Perhaps I have some confusion regarding elbow injuries because the pain is not in my elbow, it more radiates down the lateral aspect of my forearm and manifests in my wrist. I have identified a tendon (?) that possibly attaches to my lateral epicondyle that is definitely sore/irritated so I've been stretching and massaging it after workouts and before icing.
Aside from the first day I noticed it, it has not been at all unbearable and I can climb just short of my maximum effort without pain. It does ache on and off throughout the day and does not seem to be improving. I am also in graduate school and therefore have to type furiously at least 3 days a week (when I have class) as well as in the evenings when I'm studying and do notice some increased discomfort with that.
I have stopped the NSAID use because the pain isn't debilitating and I read that if it is lateral epicondylitis, it is maybe not actually an inflammation issues (contrary to what the name suggests) and therefore the NSAIDs aren't doing anything productive anti-inflammation-wise. Other than that, I have continued with the stretching, massage, and ice baths after workouts (as well as ice baths in the morning and night on rest days), and longer rest between workouts (2-3 days). My workouts now consist of a much longer warm-up that involves dynamic stretching (something I previously did not do), only last about 1-1.5h, and I try to avoid trying anything close to my maximum. I also started doing eccentric wrist flexion and supination after workouts and on days when I don't go to the gym. Originally I was planning to start a HB cycle on January 11th so I could get through a training cycle for a climbing trip in early March. Now my main goal is to develop a training plan that rehabs this issue so it does not become debilitating and/or chronic. Any thoughts?
Thank you!!