PE terminology

[strangeriniowa]

In the book are "lap" and "set" used interchangeably? On p160 it says "each lap of the circuit or route is considered one set." On p163 " sets: complete two to four laps."

Specifically for route intervals am I doing repeats on a route(climb up, lower down) or staying on route to hit the target time/moves? Climb steady 8 minutes or climb/lower repeatedly till 8 minutes? Then rest according to duty cycle. Thanks!

[Chris W]

I think the terms are what you make them. The idea is to do a specific amount of work in a specific amount of time.

For example,

This spring I was training for an endurance route at my local crag. I set an LBC on my home wall to mimic the types of holds and moves I would need to improve upon to send the route. The easiest way for me to quantify the work I was doing and prevent de-training was to run through my LBC for a specific amount of time (4 minutes). If I completed the LBC before 4 minutes was up because I was moving too fast, I would simply begin the circuit again and stay on the wall until my timer went off.

Does that answer your question?

[MarkAnderson]

Yes, in that context "lap" and "set" are used interchangeably. The idea is to select a route that takes about 8 minutes to climb at a normal climbing pace. Then climb it, at a normal climbing pace, lower and rest. Record the time it took to climb and the rest period. I do not continue climbing until I hit the target TUT, but you can if you want to. Ideally if you aren't reaching the prescribed TUT, you would instead climb more slowly, or select a longer route.

[strangeriniowa]

Thanks guys that clears it up for me. the routes at my gym are about 25-30 moves long so I'll be slowing way down, down climbing or doing LBC. Appreciate the replies!