Not a lot of experience, but I've toyed with it. I think that in principle it has some advantages, but also some disadvantages.
Pros: measurable, can track improvement in PE between sessions and seasons. Cons: Even more training that doesn't involve complex climbing; boring; possibility of becoming stupidly addictive, like hangboarding and campusing for power.
ditto what wellhung said. i think one of the key disadvantages is that actual PE climbing confronts some of the less obvious areas of difficulty, like being willing to jack up your feet when you really don't want to.
I like the idea of using it for P.E but I personally use it sans feet. I still want the moves to be relatively hard...but sustainable for 20+ moves..because that mimics the types of routes I am interested in
Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 5, 2015 11:32:15 GMT -7
Pretty much agree with everyone else. I think it has huge potential for scientific study because it's so controlled, but the lack of a technical element is a huge strike against it for rock climbers in practice The best reason I can imagine to do it would be if you have a campus board but not a bouldering/climb wall. (in other words, you have no choice)
Thanks for your comments. Yeah I can see the downside in terms of lack of movement specific training. Some days the gym is just too crowded for a proper linked bouldeirng session, whereas the campus board is almost never in use. I was thinking of implementing it as part of the PE period, with 1 feet on campusing session a week in addition to say 2 days of linked bouldering circuits.
I've started doing a little bit of this as I have a campus board at home with a detachable bottom board with feet holds. Despite the obvious issues mentioned here, I quite like it. I have small and large rungs on the same pathway up the board so can easily swap back and forth, and I have put some absolutely heinous footholds to stand on while I do it, and have to move my feet up these as I get to the higher rungs.
For me I like it as 90% of the crags I climb at predominantly involve climbing on edges. Also I feel it's helping me to learn to better utilize tiny footholds and move from them (but I suppose this could be better done with LBC's with the access to the right footholds in the right places). And its super controlled and really allows you to push. Plus I've got no other option for PE at home!
The limitations, As Dave McLeod mentions in the article you posted, PE is pretty specific, so if you climb in similar places to me then its a great tool, but if you climb on pockets and pinches a lot then probably not.
Just a tip if you do decide to add it, hold each rung for a count to 5 or so between each move. It's easy to go really fast through the rungs and do say 30 moves in 40 seconds, but this isn't how we climb, and I've found it just ruins your skin really quickly and tires your bigger muscles but not forearms.