CAP - climbing after pumped

[tiago]

I read in Kris Hampton's blog about CAP - climbing after pumped where he states that, after doing his 4x4's, he performs another 20 minutes of continuous climbing (after some rest, I suppose). The objective is the opposite of ARC: climbing above the maximum steady state threshold, managing the pump almost to the point of failure and thus teaching the body to climb after pumped
. As I like to plan my peak phase around my holidays, where I can onsight some hard stuff, I find this idea interesting, as it enables one to manage a pump on a not-so-difficult-but-uncharted-terrain.

www.powercompanyclimbing.com/2011/09/graduation-cap.html

Has anyone experimented with this?

[MarkAnderson]

I haven't. Sounds like a junk mileage situation though. Curious to hear how such training effects power.

[otis]

I know quite a few RRG climbers who utilize a similar routine as part of their extended PE training. They'll do 100-200 moves on steep terrain to get ready for the fall. These workouts are usually few in number, as they can be quite taxing, but does seem to help get ready for the crazy pump you can experience at the Red. To Mark's point, it does absolutely nothing for power but at the Red, most routes don't require that much power.

[tiago]

I am aware that such a training might affect my power; However, onsighting in Kalymnos means a long time on a route developing a massive pump on not-so-hard sequences (as such, I guess I could compromise a bit of power) and I am afraid my PE routine might not be enough to work on that endurance that I will need.

[tedwelser]

Hey Tiago-
(Iam not sure if you said you had climbed at Kalymnos before, if you have I apologize for being redundant). I normally climb at the Red the New, which tend to have steep and featured routes. This spring I climbed at Misja Pec for a day and got on a couple Tufa routes. Two things that I was not prepared for were the hold shapes and the footwork/kneebars.

The pinches on the tufas tended to be deep and slight-- I had trained on pinches that were more shallow and incut which was not typical on the tufas. I needed more practice squeezing slight but deep pinches. In terms of footwork I was used to finding kneebars, but not typically horizontally or diagonally between two vertical protrusions. If I had had more time I would have benefited from doing a day of skill practice on a couple easier tufa routes just to practice reading and using the kneebars and mini stems.

[tiago]

Hi,

Yeah, actually I've been there. Kalymnos has lots of tufas but most of them form some blobs that you can grab above (that's about the best pinch ever), and the endurance I should look for would be on overhanging terrain with big holds. However, I'm kind of hoping to include pinch training on my LBC practice.

I figured I should try to take 6-7 seconds between holds to mimic the ammount of time I will take onsighting routes (if needed, I'll count to tree every time I grab a hold before moving the next one - without letting go of the holds as I count).

I also think a 25-to-30-move LBC should suffice (most routes in Kalymnos have a great rest in the middle). I don't have access to roped climbing during the week, or I would work on that as well.