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Post by Chris W on Apr 3, 2018 19:44:30 GMT -7
It really is just a bolted boulder problem. Once I figure out how to do the moves and start redpoint attempts, I'll be stick clipping the first two bolts to prevent hitting the starting ledge and breaking an ankle (or my belayer's clavicle). From the second bolt, it's one hard move to get to the clipping hold for the third bolt. Then three small crimps and awkward/missing feet to throw for an easy edge to clip the fourth bolt, then you can just follow that nice edge rail to the anchors. Maybe 20-30 feet of hard climbing?
Once folks climb all the hard lines at Birdsboro, they use Flippin' the Bird as the start of one of several link-ups. That, or they never come back and spend all their free time making short trips to the New.
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Post by scojo on Apr 3, 2018 21:49:06 GMT -7
Maybe I'll check out Birdboro some time that I'm visiting my parents. Is it ever possible to climb there in the winter?
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Post by Chris W on Apr 4, 2018 4:20:49 GMT -7
Yes; I've climbed there in the winter many times. There are routes that are in the sun, some of which are really good, but they can be really chossy. The best routes are on the Big Wall, which is in the shade all day, with the exception of the first hour or two after dawn. The big wall is overhanging enough that it will stay dry in a light rain, but you can get water seeping down from the top if it's been raining for a while. There are plenty of warm days in the winter, but they are scattered and unreliable, which is why I don't use winter as a performance climbing season. Of course, the weather is NEVER very reliable here.
If you like bouldering, there is some top notch bouldering in South Central PA, and the best season for that is the dead of winter.
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Post by Chris W on May 2, 2018 17:44:52 GMT -7
Just an update: I'm now almost 9 weeks out from my last HB session and am still maintaining/improving in the power department. I send my (most brutal to date) limit boulder problem on Friday, and am improving still a little on the campus board (though that may be more technique). I've focused solely on power though; haven't done any PE work. I'm a bit surprised I've maintained for so long. Conditions are starting to go to crap though; almost hit 90 here today.
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Post by Chris W on May 12, 2018 13:39:25 GMT -7
Interesting side note: last season I trained PE hard to send my project. This season I focused on power only. Yesterday I did a PE session (LBC) to see where I stand for my trip to the NRG tomorrow. I was just as successful on my LBC as I was at the end of last season. Several possible reasons for this, but haven't figured out which one yet.
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by richb on May 18, 2018 8:07:11 GMT -7
Exact same LBC as last year, right? Dare I suggest that you are a better and stronger climber than last season?
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by richb on May 18, 2018 8:13:39 GMT -7
I'm working a power-crux project this season, too. I can only try it until noon when the sun hits it, so I've been projecting other nearby power endurance routes in the afternoons. Weekday training has been almost all strength and power with a few LBCs mixed in. The real power endurance training has taken place at the crag. Hope your NRG trip is/was awesome!
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by richb on Oct 11, 2018 14:01:15 GMT -7
Chris W updates? This past weekend I got back on Diesel for the first time since last May, when I suffered an A2 partial tear while on the route. My rehab over the summer appears to have been successful, as I duplicated my best efforts from the spring by one hanging. It's going to be cruxy finding the time and conditions to keep putting in burns, between my 9-5, parenting, and endless home improvement. Expecting kid #2 in early March (just in time to wreck my spring season ;-) ).
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Post by Chris W on Oct 11, 2018 14:36:03 GMT -7
So... it's a bit complicated. I've basically come to the conclusion that I need to get stronger before I can send that route. My circumstances: -Four very young children, so driving more than an hour to go climbing is tough. -Limited route options locally, so progressing by building a typical route pyramid is difficult at this point -Few available climbing partners, especially considering my job involves evening, weekend and holiday hours
My plan now, in a nutshell, is to focus on training strength and power. When I have an available climbing partner, I'll try to knock out as many of local 12's as possible, or simply boulder on rope if I'm climbing at an area where I've done all the easier routes. When I don't have a climbing partner, I'll focus on the local boulders, which fortunately are (relatively) abundant and quite vicious, good training for the harder routes. That will get me time on real rock and help build technical skills.
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