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Post by Chris W on Sept 29, 2016 15:18:38 GMT -7
Mark, any chance you can post your training calendar from the Siberian Express route in March 2015? I'm interested in seeing how you spaced out your sessions.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 29, 2016 16:37:26 GMT -7
Yes, but I don't have it with me. Remind me tomorrow (pm or email would be best).
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 30, 2016 19:35:13 GMT -7
Chris, just sent you an email....
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Post by Chris W on Jan 23, 2018 21:19:34 GMT -7
Have you ever worked the crux on a project as part of your power phase? My spring season goal route is, I think, a big roped boulder problem. The weather (and finding a partner) could be pretty iffy during my power phase, but I'm considering adding some roped bouldering into my spring training plan.
I haven't been on the route before, so I'm not sure if it would devolve into something that's not intense enough for the power phase.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 24, 2018 14:24:14 GMT -7
Yes. Classically speaking, I like to alternate LB+C days with LB-only days. If I were to roped boulder an upcoming proj, I would do it on an LB-only day.
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Post by Chris W on Jan 24, 2018 19:11:50 GMT -7
Sounds good, thanks. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a good combination of dry weather and a willing (and hardy) partner. I've considered nominating South Central PA for the Worst-Climbing-Weather-On-Earth award, but I think that's just grass-is-greener outlook.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 24, 2018 19:25:52 GMT -7
Rope soloing can work if you can't find a partner. However, I often have trouble trying really hard on rope-solo because I get scared, etc. If you can't try hard, it won't be a very effective LB workout. YMMV
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Post by Chris W on Jan 25, 2018 5:27:35 GMT -7
I thought about that. I actually have everything I need for it, but it honestly scares me a little too. I use a similar system when I re-bolt a route or replace hardware, but somehow that doesn't seem as daunting.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 25, 2018 10:15:00 GMT -7
For me the problem is that you can rarely pull onto the wall in the exact spot you want to work, and the terrain is generally too difficult to let go with one hand and pull up slack, so I usually have to climb into the crux, which puts a bunch of slack into the system (which is sketchy enough without slack). I have to be in a really burly head space to repeatedly try a bunch of low-percentage moves knowing I'm going to "whip" onto my rope solo rig every time. Most of the time it's not worth the risk (for me). Frankly, I don't think it's particularly safe.
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Post by erick on Jan 25, 2018 13:49:38 GMT -7
I have to be in a really burly head space to repeatedly try a bunch of low-percentage moves knowing I'm going to "whip" onto my rope solo rig every time. Most of the time it's not worth the risk (for me). Frankly, I don't think it's particularly safe. My experience exactly
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Post by jcm on Jan 25, 2018 20:11:29 GMT -7
With the right rope solo rig these problems are all fixable. A good set up should let you position yourself correctly and also feed hands free. I used tr soloing a lot this summer to work out cruxes on prospective projects. I’d often suss a route by myself mid-week after work (if partners weren’t free that day) to figure out beta, then when I returned with a partner mid-week I would be ready to try to make links and/or send. This worked pretty well.
That said, I agree that it is hard to give maximum effort on rope solo. It definitely isn’t a replacement for proper limit bouldering. It is better for hanging on a rope, ticking holds, and sussing beta during the early stages of a project.
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Post by Chris W on Jan 25, 2018 21:32:49 GMT -7
I could see doing it on a vert or slab route, but it gets wonky on an overhanging route. The extra weight of the rope and devices pulling through the rope can throw things off for me. I may be able to keep myself happy by doing some judicious outdoor limit bouldering.
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Post by jcm on Jan 26, 2018 12:17:41 GMT -7
I could see doing it on a vert or slab route, but it gets wonky on an overhanging route. The extra weight of the rope and devices pulling through the rope can throw things off for me. I may be able to keep myself happy by doing some judicious outdoor limit bouldering. Yeah, totally true. I’ve found that TR soloing works well up to about 15 or so degrees overhanging. Past that it gets problematic. We are just do short on steeply overhanging stuff here in WA that this isn’t a problem... Agreed that there is no substitute for bouldering.
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Post by Chris W on Apr 3, 2018 4:48:14 GMT -7
So, turns out Flippin' the Bird really is just one big boulder problem. I still need to figure out the moves on one more section.
I'm supposed to be about 10 days into my PE phase, but I haven't done any PE work yet. My plan is to stretch my power phase until I have all the moves figured out, then switch to just one PE session per week and 1-2 power sessions per week.
Good idea? Bad idea?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 3, 2018 9:24:23 GMT -7
Good idea. Power takes more sessions to attain/maintain, and PE requires less. Also, if it really is a boulder problem, you probably want to prioritize Power over PE.
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