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Post by Evan Marlatt on Jun 23, 2015 8:07:53 GMT -7
Before I ask any of my questions, I want to thank the Anderson brothers for their book which I can attribute to me becoming a stronger climber. I went from climbing 5.12a to 5.13a in a year. Unfortunately I injured my A2 Pulley on my right ring finger. It is just a strain and has been bothering me a lot lately so I have decided to take some time of.
What I would like to know: 1. How much time should I take off to just rest? Not active rest, but real rest? I plan to ice and rest my finger for 3 days and take ibuprofen. I then plan to use a heating pad for 4 weeks and then begin climbing really easy routes.
2. Once I have rested, what is the next stage? Do I climb easy routes? Do I hang board with lots of weight removed? I read in a similar post that hangboard rehabing is a good idea.
I would really appreciate if someone could help me plan a step by step rehabilitation plan that includes the timing for m y rest and rehab exercises.
Thanks for your time,
Evan
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Post by majorsick on Jun 23, 2015 12:12:49 GMT -7
I had posted a very similar request awhile back and had a lot of feedback from Mark and others. rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/543/pulley-strain-rehab-programI just finished up with a hangboarding rehab stint and would definitely recommend it. Rest passively until swelling and pain subside and begin hangboarding on tendon friendly grips removing LOTS of weight. I started by removing 25% of my body weight on jugs and even more on smaller holds. I cycled through 4 grips once I was thoroughly warmed up and increased resistance by 5 lbs per session, resting 2-3 days between sessions. 2 days earlier on and when the workout started to feel a little "hard" I backed off to 3 days. There were 2 workouts when I felt discomfort in the injured finger during which I immediately stopped the workout and rested 3 days, dialing back 10# resistance on the next workout. I warmed up on the hangboard doing 3-4 sets of jug hangs gradually increasing resistance until I got to the 25% body weight. I used the "repeater" timing. ((7 seconds on - 3 seconds off) x6 - rest 3 minutes) x2) for each grip. There are tons of phone apps that you can use to set up a timer than will make tracking these times easy. I decided not to continue the rehab resistance progression back to my hangboard training baseline, but rather get to bodyweight on jugs at which point I would begin a new training phase (starting with base fitness). I just completed my first ARC workout last night and am pain free. Again, I would highly recommend this approach. It's an exercise in patience (especially early on) but it makes SOO much more sense than taking a bunch of time off and then just easing back into easy climbing. It's way too easy to push yourself too hard too fast.
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