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Post by jdgilberg on May 9, 2014 13:36:56 GMT -7
Does anyone foam roll before or after climbing? I do on occasion but I wonder if anyone has seen a lot of increase in flexibility or recovery with a dedicated routine.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 9, 2014 15:21:04 GMT -7
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Post by tomfallen on May 10, 2014 10:39:40 GMT -7
This may be a repeat of some of what I wrote in the thread Mark linked to, but I've seen a lot of benefits from foam rolling (and related techniques) so I thought I'd elaborate a bit.
I've seen huge benefits from smashing tight tissues in my arms. Specifically, I've basically eliminated elbow tendinitis (medial epicondylitis and brachialis tendinitis) that I've had for most of the 7+ years I've been climbing. I use a foam roller on my brachialis, triceps, and finger extensor muscles by putting it against a wall and leaning on it. I also use the foam roller on my biceps by lying face down on the floor. I smash my finger flexor muscles and around my medial epicondyle by putting a lacrosse ball on a coffee table and rolling my arm around on it. I also use two lacrosse balls taped together by holding it in one hand and mashing it into any places in my arm that I missed with the other techniques. I spend more time on tissues that are abnormally tender and/or tight.
I've been doing this for about 45 minutes, 3 times a week. I think as my elbows heal, I'll need it less. I've tried before or after climbing, or on rest days, and haven't seen a difference. The effects seem to be longer term: on the order of a week or month, rather than hours. I usually end up doing it on rest days as it's easier to fit into my schedule. Foam rolling is also popular with weightlifters. They seem to use it in warmup, in part because it can increase range of motion without loss of strength. (Static stretching causes some loss of strength, at least in the short term.) So it might make sense to do it pre-climbing.
I also foam roll and use the lacrosse balls on my pecs and lats, which helps with the hunched over "climber posture" and excessive time spent at a computer.
I highly recommend Kelly Starrett's book "Becoming a Supple Leopard". It has a lot of good info on mobility and good movement. He doesn't cover much about forearms, as he doesn't specifically train climbers, but the ideas for other muscle groups are pretty ease to apply to forearms and elbows.
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Post by Jack Ziegler on Jul 29, 2014 20:48:37 GMT -7
I also use a foam roller and lacrosse balls. I have found ways to use the foam roller to loosen up my shoulders, upper back, hips, groin, quads, ribs, neck, chest, lats,...I keep finding new ways to use these tools. I find that rolling and massaging with balls before stretching has huge benefits, makes stretching easier and more effective. Don't use the lacrosse balls right before you climb though, they are a bit intense and sometimes you'll be in pain afterwards (I apply Bengay and ice if it's bad). Foam rolling is great before climbing though. I try to roll or stretch lightly before I climb, and stretch and roll after I climb (sometimes deeply if I have time). I also roll, massage, and stretch (in that order) on my recovery days. I'd say it depends on how tight your muscles get and your flexibility goals (I'm pretty high in both categories). If I am hiking a lot with a heavy pack, I need to stretch my lower body more. If I climb too much, I also need to stretch more (back, chest, shoulders, biceps, and forearms and need extra recovery days for stretching. I've gotten more flexible with this frequency, and have noticed an increase in climbing efficiency (with better range of motion in my shoulders).
I also find it very effective to have someone stand on your forearms and biceps, chest, and back (like a thai massage). For the biceps and forearms, have them use one bare foot (oil helps if you are hairy) and slide down from the upper arm. The other foot is on the ground varying the weight. For the chest, lay down with your head at a wall. Have them balance with their hands on the wall and slide their feet from the middle of the chest to the shoulders. Same for the back. Start from the middle and work outwards.
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