Alternative to Linked Bouldering Circuits

[Philipp]

Hi,

I met a guy at my gym who was doing the following routine for PE training:

   

• 1 set =(Climb the first 20 moves of a route at or slightly below your OS level + 1 min Rest ) x 6 repitions
•  4 to 6 sets=1 workout

In my last (=first) season I was having troubles to find good Linked bouldering circuits. So I thought this workout might be a good alternative.

What do you think about it?

Thanks!

[jessebruni]

So 20 moves * 6 reps * 6 sets is 720 moves. Seems like an awful lot of volume for a power endurance workout doesn't it? I'd imagine it'd be a decent alternative if you can't find or create any good LBC's although personally I'd just do 4x4's instead. Just because the route is at OS limit doesn't say much about the first 20 moves. Could be that his onsight limit is 12c but that route is 20 moves of 10c into a V5 boulder problem. In that case those first 20 moves aren't doing him any good. I'm sure he's taking that into consideration, but it's an easier problem to eliminate when you use boulder problems.

Lets see what Mark thinks.

[MarkAnderson]

I agree, the volume is really high, and the intensity (OS level) is definitely quite low for true POWER Endurance. I would say that's more like Endurance.

The concept is fine though (using a roped route for PE training). Just reduce the number of reps/sets so you can up the intensity (assuming you want to train PE). I would also define the rest interval in terms of Duty Cycle (instead of minutes) and adjust as you progress.

[Philipp]

Thanks for your comments!

Jesse, of course you are right, that you have to pick a route that is hard right at the beginning and continous.

Mark, regarding duty cycle you would use the same numbers as with linked bouldering circuits i suppose (1 to 1,5, if i recall correctly, I dont have my book at hand...)?

Cheers!