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Post by Jon on May 6, 2015 11:37:49 GMT -7
JonFrisby, fellow name bearer, are you saying that you wouldn't do finger strength training during power, or no other form of strength training during power phases? If it is the former, I can understand that. But if it is the latter, I would like to hear your rationale on that?
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Post by jonfrisby on May 6, 2015 19:47:44 GMT -7
You're engaging the pull muscles pretty hard during both limit bouldering and campusing, but you're also engaging push, antagonist, core, etc. etc. So there are two issues: a) the particular muscles you need to be at their best to perform the workout correctly aren't fully recovered, and power has to be trained in the 90%'s of your max. B) your body really needs 70 hours to recover between power workouts to get it all back, and training and trying to recover the big muscle groups is going to slow down the process globally.
In finger strength training, you can afford to not be in tip-top shape in parts of your body as long as you are well rested in the general sense of the word, and of course in your fingers.
**(IMO - I don't have anything beyond personal experience to back this up so I defer to more medically oriented folks)
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Post by jonfrisby on May 6, 2015 19:54:41 GMT -7
I should caveat that I naturally put muscle mass on easily (fat too), so there are some contributing factors: 1) bouldering warmups will end up doing as much muscle maintenance as I need, 2) I'm trying to start slimming down to send once I start power, and this is a necessary part of keeping my weight down. Me hitting goal weight is pretty tough. It's not uncommon for me to hit what I'd guess is 10% body fat while still being 170 pounds, and I'm trying to hit 162-3 for optimal sending weight.
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Post by Jon on May 7, 2015 11:09:19 GMT -7
Jonfrisby, thanks for clarifying. I think the order of events is important and overall fitness goals are important too. From my perspective, a one hour session of limit bouldering and/or campusing really only boils down to roughly 10-15 minutes time under tension. It's tiring, but I have never felt a full body exhaustion from either workout. I would not lift prior to a campus or LB workout, but I personally have experienced better overall gains adding in a heavy pressing exercise, core and some leg work with occasional pull work at the end of LB and campus days. As for bulking up easily, I highly recommend keeping the weight high and reps low. That has helped me get stronger without adding much weight.
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Post by jonfrisby on May 7, 2015 12:59:39 GMT -7
I totally agree that you have the right mindset and that if that's the way your body works, absolutely go for it. My concern is carryover tiredness from the previous weight session and finding that for me personally, it's not the best use of my overall energy. I stick to the low rep/high weight thing myself as well, but even that will put on a lot of bulk (especially deadlifts and squats with regard to legs). I try to drop 5 pounds out of my legs between power week one and sending week one.
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