Does anyone here do a power/strength maintenance workout during sending season to keep up those attributes? I'm thinking of doing a hybrid campus/hangboard workout once a week mid-week so that my strength and power don't fade while I'm focusing on climbing outside as much as possible on the weekends.
Any tips or thoughts on what has worked or hasn't worked for you?
Yes - especially if I start trying to send in my PE phase (i.e. power-based projects, long trips, spread out trips). This leads to strength and power going down a little and I feel that doing a maintenance workout once per 7-10 days is useful. My workout is generally warmup bouldering and/or a single ARC session, followed by hard boulder projecting and/or fnigerboarding depending on the style and dynamic-ness of the routes I'm trying. For this season, with very fingery routes, this means hang boarding.
During my previous season I did some maintenance during the PE phase: for every 3 PE trainings I did a hard bouldering + campus session. I think it kept my power up a bit and slowed down detraining, but I have no reference to prove this.
Sounds like a great way to prevent detraining of power when entering the performance phase! Would you consider this a general improvement on the RPTP Mark? Would you do the same thing during next seasons? And would you recommend it to us disciples? I'm tempted to try the hybrid session approach as well as I often tend to pick powerful projects.
Yeah what Mark does is basically my ideal - and if the route is super fingery but not at all dynamic, I might try to move the balance more toward the strength end of the spectrum. It's worth noting that I really can't get on rock as much as many, so Mark's "only once per week" is pretty much normal for me, though it's more like "no climbs for two weeks followed by 5 out of 7 days"
Last Edit: May 1, 2015 5:21:13 GMT -7 by jonfrisby
Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking that once a week (Wedesdays) would be good to try this workout for maintenance. That'll give me 2 days recovery after climbing all weekend and 2 days recovery before climbing again all weekend.
Do any of you think that training HB strength right after limit bouldering and campusing will dilute the effects of the power workout at all? Is it better to them back-to-back in one session on split up into a morning and evening session?
Would you consider this a general improvement on the RPTP Mark?
I would say no, because in my mind I've always been doing things this way (though not always so diligently, or with such success). However, when I look through the RCTM, I don't really see it presented in the book precisely the way I'm doing it now.
The book talks about using NLP during the Performance Phase (p.80), and prescribes doing WBLs, including Hard Bouldering, and PE during one indoor day per week (p.161,186-7 and elsewhere?). This is very similar to what I'm doing now, except that I'm including some LBing and more Campusing for maintenance (I've done campusing for maintenance in the past, but not enough to justify putting it into the book).
So, my opinion would be that the information is in there, but it's not spelled out and leaves it up to the reader to connect the dots. And, my maintenance approach has certainly evolved in the two years since we wrote the text. We certainly could have presented it more explicitly, but I think at the time I didn't think it was as important as I do now. Now that I'm done writing all that, I would have to say it is an improvement on what is in the RCTM, but more like a natural evolution which is inherent to the RPTP.
I hope that's political enough for you
EDIT TO ADD: ...and "yes" to your other questions, if you have the time, inclination, and it suits your goals.
My two cents for what it's worth. I think strength maintenance workouts throughout your program are essential for two primary groups. Those who have been climbing for a while and climb closer to their potential and those over the age of 35. I'm nearly 40 now and have found that I lose strength/power a lot quicker than I used to. I now perform best when I do at least a touch of resistance training and strength work every week except for rest weeks.
Hey Jon- I have noticed that going to the "regular" gym over the winter has really helped my climbing by increasing overall body strength. I'm not quite in the 35+ group (just barely; I'm 34), but I put together a workout plan that has helped balance out my body a bit and increased my pull strength, ability to lock off on holds, and as a side effect even increased my route endurance! This workout is something that I'd like to include in my once-a-week maintenance work but it's starting to become a lot of maintenance work! Campus + HB + lifting weights every week and still climb hard on the weekends??
Campus + HB + lifting weights and still climbing hard on weekends seems a bit naive to expect IMO. If you're climbing hard on the weekends and doing that much during the week your workouts during the week are probably not at their ideal intensity levels.
In season, I usually try to do two brief lifting days per week. It will usually consist of a brief dynamic warm-up, a pressing exercise, a pulling exercise and a leg exercise. I usually do 4 sets of each exercise in the 4-6 rep range, sometimes higher for the legs. The first set is a warm-up, then three hard sets. I also do the lifts in rotation, so that I can complete the workout quicker. I'll wrap up with 5-10 minutes of focused core work. I can do the whole workout in about 30 minutes.
I've had no issues doing this type of a workout at the end of a climbing day or climbing focused workout. I usually have at least a 30 minute break between my climbing focused work and my lifting. Now that I am getting older, I find this to be more helpful and I feel physically stronger while climbing with this approach.
One caveat, on days that I campus, I usually will skip the pull exercise and only do the press and legs. My primary focus with campusing is larger pulls and I usually do some pull-ups to warm up for it, so no need for additional pull exercises.