Post by Joe on Mar 18, 2015 8:46:13 GMT -7
Hello Mark and Mike,
I've spent the last six months recovering from an injury/surgery that didn't allow me to climb for about 4 months. In those six months, I've really focused on your recommendations for bouldering training to build my strength and power back up, as I thought that would be more important than endurance work to get fit long term. I'm happy and a little surprised to say that my strength and power are both way up, probably the best they've been in 5 years, but my endurance is not surprisingly down. The benefit of my strength training is that I am once again onsighting 12a's, because the moves seem pretty easy, but I do get quite pumped. The down side is that my ability to link hard moves on a 13 a/b is really bad at the moment. I can do probably 20-30 feet of this before pumping out and my recovery ability is still lacking at the moment. I've got a trip planned to the Red in the middle of April, so I have just over four weeks to prep. My primary goal routes would be Paradise Lost, 8-ball and the Force.
Would love to get your thoughts on what I should focus on to get as much power endurance over this period of time? Although this is out of sequence, I was thinking of doing two weeks of ARC training and then two weeks of PE training, but not sure about how that would likely play out? Also with PE training, since we're talking about the Red, should I do 6x6's instead of 4x4's?
I wasn't planning to try anything hard until this fall, but with my recovery ahead of schedule, I kind of want to see what I can do this spring. I'll do a full normalized cycle this summer. Thanks for any help you can provide.
I've spent the last six months recovering from an injury/surgery that didn't allow me to climb for about 4 months. In those six months, I've really focused on your recommendations for bouldering training to build my strength and power back up, as I thought that would be more important than endurance work to get fit long term. I'm happy and a little surprised to say that my strength and power are both way up, probably the best they've been in 5 years, but my endurance is not surprisingly down. The benefit of my strength training is that I am once again onsighting 12a's, because the moves seem pretty easy, but I do get quite pumped. The down side is that my ability to link hard moves on a 13 a/b is really bad at the moment. I can do probably 20-30 feet of this before pumping out and my recovery ability is still lacking at the moment. I've got a trip planned to the Red in the middle of April, so I have just over four weeks to prep. My primary goal routes would be Paradise Lost, 8-ball and the Force.
Would love to get your thoughts on what I should focus on to get as much power endurance over this period of time? Although this is out of sequence, I was thinking of doing two weeks of ARC training and then two weeks of PE training, but not sure about how that would likely play out? Also with PE training, since we're talking about the Red, should I do 6x6's instead of 4x4's?
I wasn't planning to try anything hard until this fall, but with my recovery ahead of schedule, I kind of want to see what I can do this spring. I'll do a full normalized cycle this summer. Thanks for any help you can provide.