|
|
Post by bickill on Mar 14, 2015 6:29:40 GMT -7
Hello all,
2 days ago I was doing my first LB workout of my power phase and felt something strange in my finger. It feels ok now, enough I could probably push through my campus workout scheduled for today, but I'm playing it safe and giving it a few days before even trying to climb.
Assuming when I test it out, and it feels good I'll likely have missed 1 campus workout and 1 LB workout, and a total of 6-7 days off in general. My question is what do you do after missing a few workouts? Do you extend your plan by a week? Skip them entirely and just call it a loss?
Any feedback would be helpful, thanks!
|
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 16, 2015 11:02:19 GMT -7
It depends on your performance plans. If you are training for a climbing vacation, with hard start and stop times, then you need to re-plan so your peak coincides with your vacation. If your performance plans aren't based on fixed dates, just pick up where you left off.
|
|
|
|
Post by Charlie S on Apr 2, 2015 11:18:27 GMT -7
It depends on your performance plans. If you are training for a climbing vacation, with hard start and stop times, then you need to re-plan so your peak coincides with your vacation. If your performance plans aren't based on fixed dates, just pick up where you left off. I'd like to follow on to this with a semi-related question. I have the dreaded climber's elbow! I picked it up on a mostly sport climbing trip at the end of my last phase (January). Training focus had been on vertical or near vertical technical climbing, but this trip was mostly powerful overhanging climbing. 4 days of that and I started to notice the problem. I've been going through eccentric motion exercises to get this to go away. Moderate success has been gleaned, but today, after hangboard workout #7, the elbows are cranky. My plan is to: -Take a week off -Do reverse wrist curls 5 days a week indefinitely (I had been on-and-off for the past 3 months with 2-3 times a week) -Skip HB workouts #8 and #9 (the last two) during the week off -EASE into power/campusing -Resume full-speed to power-endurance with an emphasis on the endurance side, and on vert-to-no-more-than-15-degrees terrain. -Try to get the OS of Butterballs in Yosemite first week of May (this is an objective for the spring and this training cycle) -Take a real 2 weeks off for the rest phase Campusing in the past has never caused my elbows to hurt. Then again, neither has hangboarding. I note a flare-up on any bouldering that's steeper than 30 degrees. Input? Recommendations? Some of the articles out there seem to indicate don't stop climbing, but lay off of the steep stuff and follow the reverse wrist curls religiously. |
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 3, 2015 10:02:42 GMT -7
If this happened to me, I would go in a different direction.
*I wouldn't take time off unless the pain was completely debilitating (like, I couldn't use my arms to open doors without experiencing pain). I would throw in an extra rest day here and there.
*I wouldn't skip hangboarding in favor of campusing. Campusing is WAAAAAY harder on your elbows then hangboarding. Hangboarding is my go-to rehab exercise for nearly every injury, so if anything I would extend the Strength Phase. It seems really od that HBing would be the cause of the problem, assuming you are keeping tension in your elbows during your hangs. But if HBing is the problem, consider dialing back the resistance a bit. I think it's more likely that Supplemental Exercises after HBing are causing the problem. Are you doing SEs? If so, which ones? Things like explosive pull-ups, 1-arm pull-ups, and biceps curls can aggravate elbows.
*If your primary goal for the season is an OS of Butterballs (great goal!), then I would considering skipping campusing completely. You won't need explosive power for that, and it is quite likely that campusing will make your elbows way worse.
So in the short term, I would:
*continue HBing, but add an extra rest day between every session,
*re-focus on using correct form while HBing, even if it means reducing resistance,
*ID any SEs that are causing problems and vastly reduce the resistance on those exercises (go to theraband levels of resistance if necessary).
*Add some massage and lots of forearm stretching (see Ch 9) into your daily routine
Hopefully that will be enough, along with the antagonist stuff, to get things back under control, but even if you resolve the issue I would strongly consider skipping campusing if your goals will allow it. If you are feeling any pain in your elbows don't attempt campusing, that will surely make it worse. Again, if the main objective is Butterballs, I don't see any use for bouldering on terrain steeper than 30 degrees, so I would avoid that in the hopes that you can nurse it through to your trip in May.
|
|
|
|
Post by Charlie S on Apr 3, 2015 12:51:26 GMT -7
|
|
