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Post by Michael Hall on Apr 30, 2014 8:06:29 GMT -7
The older I get, the more I deal with nagging injuries during training, but the better I also get at managing through them. I am curious what injuries folks have successfully navigated through during the various training phases.
I have had success managing elbows with reverse and eccentric wrist curls (weight for ~15 reps x 3 sets), shoulders/impingement with rotator cuff exercises (thera-band work) and lateral raises (weight for 10-12 reps x 3 sets).
With finger issues, which for me are usually the occasional A2 tenderness, I usually scale way back, take some rest and slowly come back with support taping (cross tape around PIP joint) and a focus on open handing. I have in the past also had some knuckle discomfort/bruising that I thought I probably could have trained through, but I erred on the side of caution.
What have others pushed through, but successfully and unsuccessfully, and how did you approach it?
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zachk
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by zachk on Jul 12, 2014 12:42:44 GMT -7
Multiple dislocations of my right shoulder here. All while climbing. All while doing the same low lock-off move with my right hand at my chest. Took a few months off the first time and didn't do too much to rehab. Took almost a year off the third time and did a bunch of rehab and have not yet re-injured.
The hardest part was mental. Both accepting that I was injured and then accepting that I needed to do something to fix it. I was told surgery was my best option, but, being uninsured at the time, it was not affordable. I saw a PT to learn about how to rehab the shoulder. Diligently continue the exercises to this day (3 years after the last injury).
The biggest challenge in coming back was to recognize when a move is likely to be injurious. Super low lock-off moves have been reintegrated slowly, but I still must be aware whenever that right hand gets turned to a thumbs down position (like a gaston or crack move) or there is a layback/heelhook lock-off to that side.
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