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Post by adrock on Apr 24, 2014 9:29:25 GMT -7
Hi guys! Trying to figure out what plan I should start with. I'm climbing about V7/8, 12 -> 12+ and have little formal training under my belt. Have been climbing on/off for 12+ years and it's time to improve!
Would there be a benefit to starting with the intermediate to condition for training or jump right in? Had a hard time determining from the book descriptions.
Thanks!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 24, 2014 14:19:18 GMT -7
Adrock,
I would do at least one cycle on the Intermediate program and see how it goes. Physically, you're probably ready for the Advanced program, but there's little harm in starting out a bit on the easy side. If you feel like you want more you can always crank it up the next time around.
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Post by adrock on Apr 25, 2014 10:15:33 GMT -7
Thanks for the quick reply. Love the book and the forum (most importantly that you use/answer on it).
Thanks!
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Post by Mike Anderson on Apr 27, 2014 4:49:27 GMT -7
I agree with Mark. Since you've never trained with RP before, you will see very noticeable gains from the intermediate routines, and doing them will help you adjust to this different form of training...especially the strength and campus training. For things like Limit Bouldering and LBCs, you can proudly use the advanced routines because you've clearly done plenty of bouldering in the past.
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Post by Michael Hall on Apr 28, 2014 14:39:21 GMT -7
I am at a similar level (v8/9, 5.13-) and have not done a ton of HB training in the past, although plenty of campusing and actually did ~6 HB sessions in my last strength cycle. I am already three HB sessions in and following the Advanced grips, but only doing the Intermediate # of sets/reps (I figured this was a fair middle ground). I haven't yet had any problems physically (no twinges or twangs, etc), but I have had to take a lot of weight off for a couple of the grips (50# for mono and narrow pinch set 1 - I weigh ~180); the narrow pinch is also in the intermediate, so that seems fine I suppose. Would I be better off switching to the intermediate or just sticking with advanced given I am already into the cycle?
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Post by Mike Anderson on Apr 29, 2014 11:41:44 GMT -7
Mah - The most important consideration is that the grips are specific to your climbing, not how much weight you use. There is absolutely nothing wrong with taking off 50 pounds. However, if you are, it should be for grips that you use on less-steep terrain because in that climbing situation, your feet will be taking off lots of weight. If you climb predominantly on lower angle rock, I would expect you to use small holds and take off lots of weight, and if you climb predominantly on steep rock, bigger holds, adding lots of weight.
The intermediate and advanced hold recommendations are just a starting point, so feel free to tailor them to your climbing.
For those just starting HB training, we strongly recommend that you err on the side of caution (start with very low weight). It's very easy to crank up the intensity as you go along, but if you start out too heavy, it's harder to go back, it can be discouraging, and, worst case, you could get injured.
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Post by Michael Hall on Apr 29, 2014 13:59:24 GMT -7
Sweet - thanks. That makes sense. I'm in Boulder, so that is a helpful perspective. I've got the weights dialed in and I must say the workout has been great - loving the new RPTC board! Its taking some faith to be so HB biased in my strength phase, but I am sticking with it!
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